03-08-2019, 04:05 PM
gwtx Wrote:Problem solved. .... The solution was to remove the really nice brake/comp. I have spent hours and hours searching every post related to the problem, and never saw anything about the muzzle device causing this type of problem. The comp works great to control muzzle rise and recoil. The rifle felt like shooting a semi auto .22 lr. The theory is that the comp was actually robbing gas pressure from the action. I'm not sure, but I think the short distance from the gas port to the muzzle played a part. I was ready to drill out the port and use an adjustable block, but he(sanders) insisted that it should be working as is. ...... Removed the comp,and VOILA.
Locks back on last round, brass is landing in a nice pile 10 ft away between 3 and 4 o'clock. POI changed a tad, had to re zero the thermal scope, and haven't shot any "groups" yet, but it tracked perfectly while zeroing the scope. I am only using a thread protector for now, but will install a new bird cage when it gets here.
I AM MUCH HAPPIER. Gary
I have to say this doesn't make any sense to me. The gas pressure loss due to a muzzle break is going to be less than the gas pressure loss of an open-ended BBL or flash-hider. The muzzle break does yank the gun forward though, which I suppose could be affecting the bolt cycle in some way, but I've never really heard of that being an issue with AR cycling reliability before.
This could be a case of parts needing to wear in, more than anything - and I suspect the muzzle break removal "fix" is more coincidental in timing of the parts wearing in, than the actual problem. It sounds like there's only about 20 rounds or so though the gun, if I read your OP right (it was kinda wall'o text there!) Go ahead and run about 200 rounds through that gun, and I bet when you put that brake back on, it'll cycle just fine.