I do have a heat gun, maybe this is a dumb question but I will ask it anyway - While I will put the barrel in the freezer, does it matter if I use a heat gun or a hair dryer? Just wondering if the heat gun would create too much heat? Or wil the heat gun heat up the upper too quick? Just wondering if this is a non issue or something I should be concerned with?
Thanks and Happy New Year (in a couple days
)
FWIW, I have a BEV on the way and a clamshell here already, so I should be g2g. Figure the BEV would be the way to go since that way the most amount of torque will be on the barrel. Then I will make some barrel clamps to put in the vise for other items, but I do not think I will really need them, other than to actually hold the upper/barrel assembly. Reason being is that I plan on using a clamp adjustable gas block and a A1 style or some type of brake that will all be applied w/ the proper torque amounts per manf along w/ loctite for the gas block (torque amount for the allen screws) and using loctite, just a bit over hand tightening for the brake w/ the proper shims to time it or just a single shim if I get a A1 style flash suppressor. Reason I am choosing a A1 style is that way the there is no 'floor' on the hider thus making sure gas escapes all around the path at approximately the same rate, at least as close as possible. Or I may just use a thread protector and loctite that on the end as I try to get recoil down as far I can - plan on using a lightweight carrier, agjustable gas block, change the single tungsten weight in the buffer to an Al one.
Anything else you guys may have a suggestion, please suggest away as I am always open to suggestions. FWIW, this will be going on a 16" Group Buy "Monster" barrel. So I am trying to go legal shortest barrel (16") with the least amount of recoil. I think I have covered all the basis, but multiple minds are better than a single one. This will not be a 'fighting' rifle, more of one to get me on the road to accurate shooting, so the minimum amount of gas to operate reliably shooting at paper or steel is what I am looking for, I have other rifles that would be use in case of a 'situation' where reliability is of utmost importance.
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks and Happy New Year (in a couple days
)FWIW, I have a BEV on the way and a clamshell here already, so I should be g2g. Figure the BEV would be the way to go since that way the most amount of torque will be on the barrel. Then I will make some barrel clamps to put in the vise for other items, but I do not think I will really need them, other than to actually hold the upper/barrel assembly. Reason being is that I plan on using a clamp adjustable gas block and a A1 style or some type of brake that will all be applied w/ the proper torque amounts per manf along w/ loctite for the gas block (torque amount for the allen screws) and using loctite, just a bit over hand tightening for the brake w/ the proper shims to time it or just a single shim if I get a A1 style flash suppressor. Reason I am choosing a A1 style is that way the there is no 'floor' on the hider thus making sure gas escapes all around the path at approximately the same rate, at least as close as possible. Or I may just use a thread protector and loctite that on the end as I try to get recoil down as far I can - plan on using a lightweight carrier, agjustable gas block, change the single tungsten weight in the buffer to an Al one.
Anything else you guys may have a suggestion, please suggest away as I am always open to suggestions. FWIW, this will be going on a 16" Group Buy "Monster" barrel. So I am trying to go legal shortest barrel (16") with the least amount of recoil. I think I have covered all the basis, but multiple minds are better than a single one. This will not be a 'fighting' rifle, more of one to get me on the road to accurate shooting, so the minimum amount of gas to operate reliably shooting at paper or steel is what I am looking for, I have other rifles that would be use in case of a 'situation' where reliability is of utmost importance.
Thanks,
Bob