08-24-2018, 02:46 PM
They are. But if a person is careful to do things within reason, highly unlikely.
Keystone, if I may: I am no gunsmith, and these are just my thoughts as a shade tree mechanic that loves to work on my guns.
It is possible to polish a chamber with such a fine compound for so long that it reduces the surface friction coefficient by making the surface too smooth, which increases bolt thrust. It is also possible, and more likely in my estimation, to polish with a more course compound so much that you begin to expand the chamber dimensions. Either of these are unwanted circumstances.
The finer compounds cut slower, and require more RPM to get their job done. So with a finer compound, it is easier to control how much you're changing the chamber dimensionally. If you turn slowly, for less time, by it's nature finer compounds make an excellent chamber finish choice. Just don't go fast for extended periods - I.E. greater than two minutes at a time.
The course compounds cut quickly, but leave lots of surface friction so that isn't the issue. The problem here is that you can't be too careful. You want to get the surface "finished" without changing the chamber dimensions by removing too much material. The more course the compound the quicker this happens.
If it were me, I'd opt for some 1000+ grit. If I were way out there away from a source of that, and all I had was some 600 grit, I'd run a mop or brush or plug for 20 seconds at low speed - think 2-300 rpm, usually low gear on the new cordless drills. Then, I'd clean the chamber, drop a round in, feel for proper chambering, and run another 20 seconds if I felt it was needed. If I didn't know, or wasn't sure, I'd assemble and test fire before I continued. You want the brass to look good after firing (free of obvious scratches - some small minor scratches are ok, and will naturally polish out with use), and the rounds need to feed well and extract well. If these conditions are met in my test, then a tear down, and final assembly is in order. If more work is needed, a tear down, rinse and repeat.
I am no gunsmith, and these are just my thoughts as a shade tree mechanic that loves to work on my guns.
This isn't rocket science, and can easily be done at home with a modicum of care and patience. These are the keys to this work, don't do anything fast or take shortcuts. Additionally, the work done this way is most rewarding. Good luck!
Keystone, if I may: I am no gunsmith, and these are just my thoughts as a shade tree mechanic that loves to work on my guns.
It is possible to polish a chamber with such a fine compound for so long that it reduces the surface friction coefficient by making the surface too smooth, which increases bolt thrust. It is also possible, and more likely in my estimation, to polish with a more course compound so much that you begin to expand the chamber dimensions. Either of these are unwanted circumstances.
The finer compounds cut slower, and require more RPM to get their job done. So with a finer compound, it is easier to control how much you're changing the chamber dimensionally. If you turn slowly, for less time, by it's nature finer compounds make an excellent chamber finish choice. Just don't go fast for extended periods - I.E. greater than two minutes at a time.
The course compounds cut quickly, but leave lots of surface friction so that isn't the issue. The problem here is that you can't be too careful. You want to get the surface "finished" without changing the chamber dimensions by removing too much material. The more course the compound the quicker this happens.
If it were me, I'd opt for some 1000+ grit. If I were way out there away from a source of that, and all I had was some 600 grit, I'd run a mop or brush or plug for 20 seconds at low speed - think 2-300 rpm, usually low gear on the new cordless drills. Then, I'd clean the chamber, drop a round in, feel for proper chambering, and run another 20 seconds if I felt it was needed. If I didn't know, or wasn't sure, I'd assemble and test fire before I continued. You want the brass to look good after firing (free of obvious scratches - some small minor scratches are ok, and will naturally polish out with use), and the rounds need to feed well and extract well. If these conditions are met in my test, then a tear down, and final assembly is in order. If more work is needed, a tear down, rinse and repeat.
I am no gunsmith, and these are just my thoughts as a shade tree mechanic that loves to work on my guns.
This isn't rocket science, and can easily be done at home with a modicum of care and patience. These are the keys to this work, don't do anything fast or take shortcuts. Additionally, the work done this way is most rewarding. Good luck!
Nothing kills the incentive of men faster than a healthy sense of entitlement. Nothing kills entitlement faster than a healthy sense of achievement.