04-06-2011, 11:45 PM
My somewhat contrarian experience: Select the right quality components, get the right tools, and pay attention to detail and you can build one that will hang with the big $$ rifles.
IE: If the parts are made right, and you put it together properly it will work reliably, and accuracy will be mostly defined by the barrel, optics/sights, trigger selection, and your shooting capability. IE: Not by black magic / secret sauce on the barrel extension. Reliability will be more due to selection of and the original mfg quality of the parts than anything you or a builder can do.
There are big debates on whether some of the secret builder tricks (locktight on the barrel extension to Upper receiver, Upper honing for concentricity, etc) make a difference or not. And in fact, some evidence that the builder tricks of old have a negative impact more than help. (Ex: Overtightening barrel nuts and flash hiders) For every story about polishing the internals there are others about how that removes the hard coating that is needed to prevent wear. So spend the money instead on a decent trigger that you don't have to polish to be smooth!
If you are just looking to get sub-moa and reliable, my experience is that it's not hard with grendel to do so without extreme measures. Not to say that concentricity is not good to have, just that the jury is out on whether honing will impact concentricity much given the way the AR assembles. But if it's important to you, there's a tool for that!
So for me, I spent my dollars on the best components I could afford, and ended up with both an accurate & reliable rifle for the price of mid-grade available commercially. And I enjoyed building it, and learning more about the AR. Most importantly, I learned exactly how it goes together, and the relationship between parts. Ex: Torque a barrel nut properly, and you realize how little the voodoo tricks can really impact accuracy.
I'd love to have a high end rifle, but it's just not in the cards with a kid in college, and another headed for West Point. And I enjoy building.
My rule of thumb would be, if you own a torque wrench and a good solidly mounted bench vice, and are comfortable in using them, you can build an AR Upper "right" with some study and the right tools. If you are not familiar with torque wrench type assembly, or are unwilling to buy a quality action block and armorer's tool, then don't try.
Also, build a lower first. If you find it hard, then don't try an upper. If you enjoyed building your lower, and managed to do so without scratching it up, and upper would be a good next step. IE: It means you can follow instruction and pay attention to detail.
If you are trying to compete benchrest or F Class, I'd question the selection of Grendel, but that's not my area of interest so maybe I'm missing something. But sure appears to me that certain bolt actions are going to be very hard to compete with box stock even with a high end, big name grendels.
I'm sure there will be other opinions, probably with merit. But here's one guy who built a grendel Upper & lower from parts that is shooting great, and is looking forward to doing my next one.
IE: If the parts are made right, and you put it together properly it will work reliably, and accuracy will be mostly defined by the barrel, optics/sights, trigger selection, and your shooting capability. IE: Not by black magic / secret sauce on the barrel extension. Reliability will be more due to selection of and the original mfg quality of the parts than anything you or a builder can do.
There are big debates on whether some of the secret builder tricks (locktight on the barrel extension to Upper receiver, Upper honing for concentricity, etc) make a difference or not. And in fact, some evidence that the builder tricks of old have a negative impact more than help. (Ex: Overtightening barrel nuts and flash hiders) For every story about polishing the internals there are others about how that removes the hard coating that is needed to prevent wear. So spend the money instead on a decent trigger that you don't have to polish to be smooth!
If you are just looking to get sub-moa and reliable, my experience is that it's not hard with grendel to do so without extreme measures. Not to say that concentricity is not good to have, just that the jury is out on whether honing will impact concentricity much given the way the AR assembles. But if it's important to you, there's a tool for that!
So for me, I spent my dollars on the best components I could afford, and ended up with both an accurate & reliable rifle for the price of mid-grade available commercially. And I enjoyed building it, and learning more about the AR. Most importantly, I learned exactly how it goes together, and the relationship between parts. Ex: Torque a barrel nut properly, and you realize how little the voodoo tricks can really impact accuracy.
I'd love to have a high end rifle, but it's just not in the cards with a kid in college, and another headed for West Point. And I enjoy building.
My rule of thumb would be, if you own a torque wrench and a good solidly mounted bench vice, and are comfortable in using them, you can build an AR Upper "right" with some study and the right tools. If you are not familiar with torque wrench type assembly, or are unwilling to buy a quality action block and armorer's tool, then don't try.
Also, build a lower first. If you find it hard, then don't try an upper. If you enjoyed building your lower, and managed to do so without scratching it up, and upper would be a good next step. IE: It means you can follow instruction and pay attention to detail.
If you are trying to compete benchrest or F Class, I'd question the selection of Grendel, but that's not my area of interest so maybe I'm missing something. But sure appears to me that certain bolt actions are going to be very hard to compete with box stock even with a high end, big name grendels.
I'm sure there will be other opinions, probably with merit. But here's one guy who built a grendel Upper & lower from parts that is shooting great, and is looking forward to doing my next one.

