11-30-2011, 05:26 AM
I was raised on MilDots and MOA knobs, which doesn't make a lot of sense. I have since converted totally to Mil/Mil, with Mil hash reticles with fine crosshairs and .5 and .2 Mil increments preferred with .1 Mil clicks...makes too much sense, although you have to convert inches into mils when looking through the optic to gain target perspective. If you can equate centimeters, you will be dead-on with the reticle for target dimensions.
Example, 30cm is 11.81", so roughly 12". A 30cm plate at 300m is 1 Mil or .3 meters. 1 mil at 400m is 40cm. 1 mil at 450m is 45cm up to 1 meter = 1 mil at 1000m or 1km.
I'm used to military binos and Mil Dots, so Mils are what I've always adjusted artillery and mortar fire with, as well as sniper rifles. It never made sense to me why the M3A turrets were in MOA, but that is they way they were. Everybody is jumping on the Euro bandwagon more and more with matching turrets, since it makes sense, but many guys are well-versed in using MOA with Mil Dots, and are quick with it since that is what they have used for years and years.
Example, 30cm is 11.81", so roughly 12". A 30cm plate at 300m is 1 Mil or .3 meters. 1 mil at 400m is 40cm. 1 mil at 450m is 45cm up to 1 meter = 1 mil at 1000m or 1km.
I'm used to military binos and Mil Dots, so Mils are what I've always adjusted artillery and mortar fire with, as well as sniper rifles. It never made sense to me why the M3A turrets were in MOA, but that is they way they were. Everybody is jumping on the Euro bandwagon more and more with matching turrets, since it makes sense, but many guys are well-versed in using MOA with Mil Dots, and are quick with it since that is what they have used for years and years.
