04-02-2017, 07:27 PM
LRRPF52 Wrote:Whatever you do, I would not buy Frog Lube. When I had someone bring it to one of my courses, it seized up a Noveske AR15 that had run 100% before then.
It felt like someone had poured fine sand inside of the rifle, and we were in pretty cold conditions with no sand in sight, still on the flat ranges with cement floors.
In the cold, that lube became very gritty for some reason. I have seen other organic oils behave the same way during thermal shift from liquid to solid, then back to liquid. You end up with a nice thick oil, and some residual grit or crystals, like with coconut oil.
What I do recommend is Slip2000, or motor oil. Even regular CLP works well actually, after years of being trashed on by everyone selling their new wonder oil.
Biggest things with a new AR15 are that you have a rough-textured, hard-anodized aluminum with pretty rough-textured phosphated Bolt Carrier rails grinding against it.
Additionally, you have hard-anodized charge handles grating against the hard-anodized internal path of the upper receiver.
I find that the thick oils do very well with buffering these articulating surfaces.
I've heard about FL seizing up in cold weather and know it's definitely a problem when FL and any other oils mix. With my CW I used a degreaser on it and then applied the FL and haven't had any issues but again wanted something different for the AR as it will potentially be exposed to cold and weather. I've seen a lot of folks recommend Slip 2000 EWL so will probably give that a try as a lube. Do you also use their bore cleaner? I understand all of their products don't come with the nasty chemical smell.