04-01-2015, 12:19 AM
A standard Milspec crush washer will work on your brake without the need for spacers or glue. $2.50
![[Image: t_231000175_1.jpg]](http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/t_231000175_1.jpg)
Again, you will need to isolate the barrel to protect it when you crank it up to time the brake. The cheapest option is a pair of barrel vise clamps. Like this setup;
![[Image: vise%20clamps_zpsxadxfl7w.jpg]](http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag436/stupidbernard/vise%20clamps_zpsxadxfl7w.jpg)
Brownels sells their version for under $30. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-...12470.aspx
If you are going to have three uppers (your avatar information) then a barrel vise or clamps is essential for building and servicing. Not just for brakes, for barrel nuts and gas blocks as well.
Truth be known the cheapest option is to get two blocks of wood and drill carefully down the join to make your own set of clamps. If you get the diameter of the hole close to the barrels' OD then the wood will nicely form around steel as you crank up the vise. I've done a bit of work on DIY diving torches in my time and we tend to glue them up something fierce to defeat salt water under pressure. Clamping the diameter and not the tangent is the only way you can get them loose. The same principle will work on your barrel.
![[Image: wood%20clamping_zpszgvpgwt8.jpg]](http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/Klemheist/wood%20clamping_zpszgvpgwt8.jpg)
Again, you will need to isolate the barrel to protect it when you crank it up to time the brake. The cheapest option is a pair of barrel vise clamps. Like this setup;
Brownels sells their version for under $30. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-...12470.aspx
If you are going to have three uppers (your avatar information) then a barrel vise or clamps is essential for building and servicing. Not just for brakes, for barrel nuts and gas blocks as well.
Truth be known the cheapest option is to get two blocks of wood and drill carefully down the join to make your own set of clamps. If you get the diameter of the hole close to the barrels' OD then the wood will nicely form around steel as you crank up the vise. I've done a bit of work on DIY diving torches in my time and we tend to glue them up something fierce to defeat salt water under pressure. Clamping the diameter and not the tangent is the only way you can get them loose. The same principle will work on your barrel.