which surefire?

[cst]

I'm thinking about putting a surefire brake/ suppressor on the rifle. Should I get the 6.8 brake/can or the 7.62? I figure the 7.62 can be used on my bolt gun... besides bore diameter differences and price....what's the size differences between the 2?

[mongoosesnipe]

I would go with the 6.8 muzzle break for the Grendel and run a 7.62 can with supersonic there won't be much difference between the 6.8 and 7.62 cans and the 7.62 will certainly be more versatile

[cst]

So a 762 can will fit on a 6.8 brake? I didnt know all the brakes have similar diameters

[explorecaves]

The mounting is typically identical between cans

[mongoosesnipe]

The largel cans wil mount on smaller muzzle devices but not the other way for safty reasons I think the larger calibers are a little bit longer than the smaller ones preventing enguagement of smaller cans onto larger muzzle devices

[joker31]

been looking at the same thing, it seems their cans dont care about the hole in the brake, it may give you an extra measure of security to buy the 30 cal brake. (I know let the flames and obvious statements line up right?) ok now the explanation...

OK so, you have a 6.5mm bullet heading down a similar sized tube at break neck speed, all is good and it exits the barrel, still all is good until it (for some unknown to you at the time) goes wonky and hits the brake, therefore taking out the brake(no biggie) and the primary baffle (ouch! there goes $1200 and 5 months) Id rather give the bullet some fudge room, I have seen squib bullets end up sideways in a can before and have seen some get blown up..using issued ammo in issued cans, had a problem with 77gr bullets in my 10" upper in Afghanistan. It happens, I brought a reamer with me to the field last time (Hand turned, Machinist type) to open the hole up on the surefire brake I was given by the supply chain, I ended up destroying the surefire can in country too but it was not the cans fault, it took a round through the side when an ESAPI plate decided it wanted to hide behind the can and a 7.62x39 dented the can and broke the baffles. I switched to a direct thread French made can that my French counterparts gave me, it was louder but it worked. BTW clearing a cave with a 10" barrel and no flash hider or can sucks, no matter how much you think the surefire earpro stops.... its frickin loud. Only cans work in that environment, Period. Might as well flashbang your team, I knew it would be a problem so I warned the team ahead of time and took the last man position so I was less likely to fire. (The reason why everyone learns every position, equipment fails and stuff happens) OUR CONVENTIONAL TROOPS SHOULD BE USING CANS!!! too many guys have Tinnitus that could have lessened their exposure and its irresponsible to not use them. Earpro in Combat is dangerous and the radio is even worse because everyone turns them up too loud, Cans are the only solution. They also let you hear where the bad guys are shooting from and give instant Pos Identification of targets that are firing (Less Blue/Blue)

Anyway, if you reload and I know most here do, if you get crap powder or a crap primer or get walnut crammed in the flash hole (Ask me how I know that one) you can get a squib that takes out the flash hider or primary blast baffle. I choose the 30cal for that reason, and had mine threaded for 5/8 and ordered a Huntertown Titanium Can for that reason. So the blast baffle is replaceable (No Sn) and the can direct threads.

[cst]

how quite\size\weight is the Huntertown compared to the Surefire?

[joker31]

17.5oz
1.5" x 17.5" rated to 300win mag
surefire has quick disconnect, the huntertown is direct thread.

http://huntertownarms.com/c3.php