New Lower receiver vise block

[montana]

When installing the buffer tube to the lower receiver at the proper torque of 40 foot pounds, it has always been a pain keeping the tube from canting or stripping threads. This jig works perfectly and can also be used as a gauge for testing completed rifles..

https://www.thecountryshed.com/vtarlwrvb.html

[ricsmall]

Great find! Thanks!

[myrifle]

Looks good.

I went a different direction and started useing ratchet lock castle nut/end plates. No more high torque needed and no vise block needed too do up the buffer tube nice and sqaure to the lower's centerline. Just eye ball it and a quick snap with a every day castle nut wrench and she is nice and tight and never coming lose.

[montana]

Looks good.

I went a different direction and started useing ratchet lock castle nut/end plates. No more high torque needed and no vise block needed too do up the buffer tube nice and sqaure to the lower's centerline. Just eye ball it and a quick snap with a every day castle nut wrench and she is nice and tight and never coming lose.

The problem I have with that set up is the actual clamping force is set by the 38 to 42 ft pounds torque, which creates the friction between the castle nut and end plate. If the ratchet system is able to meet the proper torque, then it should be good to go...

[Two Tone]

Nice link, thanks. I need one of these pretty soon.....hopefully Wilson will get the parts to me. Hunting season is fast approaching.

[montana]

Nice link, thanks. I need one of these pretty soon.....hopefully Wilson will get the parts to me. Hunting season is fast approaching.

When I use the NcStar receiver vise block, I put spacers between the receiver extension (buffer tube) holder and base to make sure it is lined up perfectly straight with the receiver. Without spacers the receiver extension is not perfectly horizontal with the receiver and can slightly bend the end of the receiver extension down when torquing the castle nut. If the castle nut is not perfectly square to the end plate it could possibly bind and give a false torque setting..

[Old Bob]

I've used mine for both traditional castle nuts & the ratchet type nut/plate for carbine buffer tubes. Didn't notice buffer tubes being out of alignment. The thumb screw under the rear clamp can be adjusted to even things out. The rear clamp doesn't have to be real tight either. Finger tight on the thumb screws is sufficient. I've also used it to install rifle buffer tubes. Torqued the buffer tubes to 35 ft lbs easily. Don't even need the clamp. Wish I had one of these years ago...

[montana]

I've used mine for both traditional castle nuts & the ratchet type nut/plate for carbine buffer tubes. Didn't notice buffer tubes being out of alignment. The thumb screw under the rear clamp can be adjusted to even things out. The rear clamp doesn't have to be real tight either. Finger tight on the thumb screws is sufficient. I've also used it to install rifle buffer tubes. Torqued the buffer tubes to 35 ft lbs easily. Don't even need the clamp. Wish I had one of these years ago...

You are correct, if you put very little force on the thumb screw under the rear clamp..

Tighten the receiver to the front via grip screw, then tighten the 2 top screws for the top bracket that holds the buffer tube. If a person then tightens the back bottom screw with any amount of force, it will pull the buffer tube down and possibly bind the castle nut against the end plate. I eliminated any possibility of binding by putting spacers between the back bracket and base. It is now permanently put on a perfect plane after tightening, eliminating any possible binding...It is quite easy to measure with a caliber when tightening the bottom thumb screw the amount of bend the bottom adj screw can create.