Barrel clearance and bipod mounting.

[Popeye212]

Building a new upper with a 20" Proof Research barrel, lightweight handguard,Bering Hogster 35R optics,suppressor and SLR adj. gas block. Harris bipod adaptor screws contacting the barrel. Open for suggestions for a bipod and mount that doesn't intrude the handguard more then a 1/4" or so. This is a "Pig build" my DMR Ballistic Advantage barrel and upper turned out to a little heavier than practical. No complaints on the present upper 4 shots 4 hogs DRT. Gas block size is .935
Thanks in advance

[biodsl]

Is your rail M-Lok, KeyMod or something else?

I have an American Defense quick detach that mounts on a piece of M-Lok pic rail. Even still, clearance is such that on some rails the section of rail needs to be mount fore or aft of the gas block. It costs some but it's now very easy to move the bipod between my rifles. https://www.admmfg.com/harris-qd-bipod-mount-improved

I have an old Midwest Industries rail (pre-M-Lok) that forced me to mount the bipod farther back than ideal.

[Dt219]

I have the magpul bipod mount it’s like $20 works great for my rails although I did have to file down the bolt threads some bc of contact with the barrel in the slim aero atlas handguard. Other rails it works great on.

[Morvandium]

What this lightweight forend is and what the attachment system is?

I looked at Harris Bipod adapters, and there's several types, but the following advice probably could be adapted to other than M-LOK mounts.

M-LOK screws can be filed or ground to make them shorter, up until they'd be flush with their nuts when tightened. On M-LOK or keymod, the limiting factor is going to be the thickness of your nuts when properly mounted -- or rather the thickness of the portion of the nut that's on the inside of the handguard.

I had to do this to mount picatinny rail sections on my slimline M-LOK handguard over my Beowulf barrel. I used a motorized grinding wheel to take off most of the material while holding the screw head with Vice Grips pliers, then used a bastard to remove burs, then a second cut or finishing file to smooth it out. Having shorter screws complicates the mounting process a bit, but if you grind M-LOK screws enough, the protrusion inside the handguard should be a under .250".

[lazyengineer]

Am the I the only guy who clicked this looking for a clearance sale, on Grendel barrels?

[Popeye212]

Am the I the only guy who clicked this looking for a clearance sale, on Grendel barrels?

ROFL I don't know what your drinking but you might wanna back off a bit...

[Popeye212]

Maybe this will help...[ATTACH=CONFIG]18415[/ATTACH]
In the process of moving into a new home. But the grinding may be worth a shot..

[mtnlvr]

Yes... I would grind a thread to a thread and a half off that and see how much clearance you end up with. I had to do the same.

[Old Bob]

Grinding the M-Lock screws is what I had to do to keep my Harris bipod adapters from contacting the gas blocks on my ARs. The handguards on all my gas guns are Midwest Industries slim line type units. M-Lock adapters are a tight fit with those handguards.

[Dt219]

That’s the mount I have. 1st take the mount off. 2nd tighten the bolts and the holder/nuts like you was going to store it so you wouldn’t lose the parts. 3rd hold the mount either with hand or vise and get an aggressive file or grinder to cut down the threads. Then try it and see if there is clearance. It took me several tries off and on but once done there is enough threads left to feel good about it and enough clearance for the barrel. How I did it anyways

[Dt219]

Looks like at least 2 threads will have to be removed.

[Popeye212]

I was about to grind the threads and found 2 picatinny mounts one chinese and one magpul in the parts bin. Magpul mount screws too long, cheap chinese just right.... I bought a new atlas bipod (picatinny mount) while I was at Primary Arms buying parts. They had it marked down. Back to the story. Pulled the screws from cheap Chinese mount and lo and behold the threads matched. Mounted Magpul rail and it fit just right and all is well in the world at present. Greyfox not sure about the barrel though, to Cryo or not Cryo??

[Morvandium]

Magpul mount screws too long, cheap chinese just right....

So, as I was trying to get my first build customized, I mounted and re-mounted rails and grips on my handguard a whole lot, trying to get them "just right". (The first AR I built was only the second one I ever shot, so I was figuring out the right feel on the fly.) I learned the hard way cheap screws can be soft and their heads start to strip after the third or fourth time I had torqued them down.

Heck, I learned the hard way there were good screws and crap screws, LOL. I also realized if I weren't all n00b about stuff on my rail and just knew where I wanted it, they would have worked fine.

Good luck deciding on the cyro barrel. I have one, but I haven't got it out shooting yet. I did a lot of reading before I decided to give it a go, as it is a pricey service. At a most fundamental level, I like the science behind it. I don't feel that I've falsely attributed, as some advocates do, any special properties to the service, or over-estimated the degree to which it will have an effect on accuracy, cooling, and/or cleaning. I'm pretty sure the limitations on the groupings will be me, and this was truly a splurge spending. If, I'm totally wrong about everything, it still encourages me to try to become a good enough shot that I could tell the difference. A little dream, like a carrot on a stick.