What presses and dies are you using and general equipment recommendations.

[centerfire]

I stand corrected...

The Dillon 650 does have 'calibre' specific' locator pins (Part #11) which will line the case up with the generic top plate die axes. There's no other reason why they would have different pins for different calibres. The Lee Loadmaster does not however. 650 Parts list here;
https://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/650_Pg_52.pdf

My pins are for 9mm and I see they are stamped '3').
[ATTACH=CONFIG]11347[/ATTACH]

Thanks for setting me straight Centrefire.

Klem

The locating buttons just keep the brass from falling out. You can run the press without them if you're not too rough.

ETA: To clarify, the button keeps the brass aligned in the shell at the die station once you're running full speed. There are breaks in the ram face so brass can be removed or inserted, the buttons keep the brass from coming out. Runout in rifle brass on a Dillon 550 or 650 is normally caused by tightening the die lock rings without a piece of brass in each station.

[Crracer712]

I got in to reloading about 15 years ago, started with 30-06. I went with the basic Lee kit, single stage. It's always produced the results I wanted. As I moved to pistol loads, I went with the Lee 4 hole turret press. Been using it quite a bit the last 6-7 years. If I had the money, I don't know that I'd upgrade. I like the way it works, I'm used to it and I've never had any issues with any of the equipment.

[Klem]

The locating buttons just keep the brass from falling out. You can run the press without them if you're not too rough.

ETA: To clarify, the button keeps the brass aligned in the shell at the die station once you're running full speed. There are breaks in the ram face so brass can be removed or inserted, the buttons keep the brass from coming out. Runout in rifle brass on a Dillon 550 or 650 is normally caused by tightening the die lock rings without a piece of brass in each station.

Yes, I am aware of the obvious function of the retaining pins, which is to retain the case while it spins at speed.

What I am referring to is the other role of the retaining pin, which is to index the case at the edge of the bottom plate. I only have one Dillon plate which is 9mm. No doubt the diameters of plates vary depending on calibre. Given the holes the retaining pins sit in are fixed their button diameters will be different diameters to account for the different diameter bottom plates. This is how Dillon solves manufacturer-induced run out in a generic machine.

Your practise of raising the ram and screwing in the die's locking nut with a case in it might also help.

.

[cwlongshot]

I have had most of whats out there today at one time or another...

Currently my Single stage bench has a Rock Chucker, a RCBS Summit and a REDDING BIG BOSS. OOH it also has a LEE ultra cheapo I use as a ram primer.

My progressive bench has a RCBS Ammo master and two Dillon 550's. (One rifle one pistol.)

Dies, REDDING first choice RCBS/ Forster/Lyman second.

Powder measurers, couple Redding units and couple Uniflo from RCBS.

Redding tricklers

Ohaus and RCBS scales

CW

[bj139]

I got in to reloading about 15 years ago, started with 30-06. I went with the basic Lee kit, single stage. It's always produced the results I wanted. As I moved to pistol loads, I went with the Lee 4 hole turret press. Been using it quite a bit the last 6-7 years. If I had the money, I don't know that I'd upgrade. I like the way it works, I'm used to it and I've never had any issues with any of the equipment.

There was a T7 for sale recently and I thought about it for a while but I am happy with my Lee turret press and don't think the T7 would do anything better.
I noticed on posts here people have multiple presses for convenience. I recently bought a Lee hand press and do all my bullet seating on it.
The quick change bushings are convenient to change dies quickly. Once you have screwed and unscrewed dies about a thousand times you will know what I mean.

[FW Conch]

+1 on the Lee hand press for bullet seating. No other method provides better feel for neck tension,IMO.

[Crracer712]

I have the Lee hand press as well. I believe I bought hornady lock nuts for all my dies, at least it seems that was the brand. I didn't care the the o-ring adjustment.

For pistol and even 223, my dies are kept on their own turret disc.

If I had the money for convenience sake, I could easily see have multiple presses for various calibers. I just don't load enough to justify.

I've got my equipment setup on one of those harbor freight wood wood working benches. A pair of mec loaders on one end, and a quick change plate on the other for the single stage and turret press.

I've done the entire process for reloading 30-06 on the hand press, but resizing isn't the funnest! But I do still use it to seat bullets on occasion.

[FW Conch]

^ I don't recommend the use of a Lee hand press for case resizing, unless using a Lee collet neck sizing die only. Best done with a bench press.

[Crracer712]

I don't either, but I've done it.

[roor]

Can anyone recommend a good full length die? I was looking at Forster but they don’t have them in stock anywhere. Another option is rcbs 264 lbc or Redding type s. Is the full length bushing a good idea? I’ve never used a bushing type die before.

[Sticks]

Bushing dies if you are going for the most accuracy you can produce. .287 through .289 bushings (IIRC)

You can measure the thickness of your case necks, and the OD and do the math to get you a .003 neck tension, but just the same get the extra bushings one step above and one below you measurement.

[cwlongshot]

I am not really actively searching... but keeping my eye open for one of these Reddings.

I have had two Lyman turrets and found them to flexible. But the design is just too convenient.

CW

[centerfire]

Yes, I am aware of the obvious function of the retaining pins, which is to retain the case while it spins at speed.

What I am referring to is the other role of the retaining pin, which is to index the case at the edge of the bottom plate. I only have one Dillon plate which is 9mm. No doubt the diameters of plates vary depending on calibre. Given the holes the retaining pins sit in are fixed their button diameters will be different diameters to account for the different diameter bottom plates. This is how Dillon solves manufacturer-induced run out in a generic machine.

Your practise of raising the ram and screwing in the die's locking nut with a case in it might also help.

.

As I mentioned earlier, Dillon specifically instructs to tighten dies with cases in every station. Much the same as a single stage, the cases float in the shell plate so as long as the ram is square to the die there shouldn't be any additional runout. It's actually surprising how good the ammo coming out of a Dillon progressive press can be. There is a funnel die that can be substituted for the thrower so you can drop trickled charges one case at a time too.

[Goebela3]

I just ordered the Co-Ax based on recommendations from here. What would you guys recommend for case trimmer, powder scale, and dies? Would prefer something nice that I could fairly easily change calibers on

[LR1955]

I just ordered the Co-Ax based on recommendations from here. What would you guys recommend for case trimmer, powder scale, and dies? Would prefer something nice that I could fairly easily change calibers on

Gb:

With the Co Ax you can easily change dies so changing calibers is not an issue. Just note that some collars for dies are too thick for the Co Ax. I can't recall the manufacturer but I am sure others here know which ones are too thick.

Having been through it before, I recommend you go to a gun show and buy a used trimmer. You will normally get them at less than half the price of a new one. Any of the trimmers that use pilots and are hand turned will be fine. The Lapua Grendel brass needs trimming about once in its life --which is upwards of twenty shots. So you won't be trimming brass too often and don't spend a bundle on a trimmer.

Do buy a decent scale. I recommend a electronic one over a balance beam scale. I imagine most of the electronic scales are made by the same manufacturer but do buy one of the mid priced ones and not a cheapo. Look at the ones Dillon sells. Have had mine for twenty plus years and although you have to re-zero it frequently when in use, a electronic scale is way, way, faster than a balance beam scale.

Dies -- get bushing dies. Redding was the fist to make them commercially for the Grendel. Expensive for a set of Redding bushing dies but you will never regret it.

You need to do a search on trimmers, dies, scales. All have been discussed on the forum over and over again.

LR55

[LR1955]

I just ordered the Co-Ax based on recommendations from here. What would you guys recommend for case trimmer, powder scale, and dies? Would prefer something nice that I could fairly easily change calibers on

Gb:

With the Co Ax you can easily change dies so changing calibers is not an issue. Just note that some collars for dies are too thick for the Co Ax. I can't recall the manufacturer but I am sure others here know which ones are too thick.

Having been through it before, I recommend you go to a gun show and buy a used trimmer. You will normally get them at less than half the price of a new one. Any of the trimmers that use pilots and are hand turned will be fine. The Lapua Grendel brass needs trimming about once in its life --which is upwards of twenty shots. So you won't be trimming brass too often and don't spend a bundle on a trimmer.

Do buy a decent scale. I recommend a electronic one over a balance beam scale. I imagine most of the electronic scales are made by the same manufacturer but do buy one of the mid priced ones and not a cheapo. Look at the ones Dillon sells. Have had mine for twenty plus years and although you have to re-zero it frequently when in use, a electronic scale is way, way, faster than a balance beam scale.

Dies -- get bushing dies. Redding was the fist to make them commercially for the Grendel. Expensive for a set of Redding bushing dies but you will never regret it.

You need to do a search on trimmers, dies, scales. All have been discussed on the forum over and over again.

LR55

[Goebela3]

I got a used trimmer off arfcom and got a RCBS chargemasted since they have a $100 rebate going on right now. I am looking at bushing dies by redding, but there appears to be a lot of options. I want a full length die and was looking at the 2 die set from them "6.5mm Grendel Type S Match Bushing Full Length Die Set" looks like they are about $180. Are those the ones you are talking about?

[LR1955]

I got a used trimmer off arfcom and got a RCBS chargemasted since they have a $100 rebate going on right now. I am looking at bushing dies by redding, but there appears to be a lot of options. I want a full length die and was looking at the 2 die set from them "6.5mm Grendel Type S Match Bushing Full Length Die Set" looks like they are about $180. Are those the ones you are talking about?

Gb:

Yes, bushing full length sizing die. Can never remember the bushing sizes I have but someone else can tell you. I think mine are .285, .286, and .287. Don't quote me so wait until someone else chimes in before buying.

If you have not yet dropped the money on the Charge Master, I advise you buy a very good powder measure (Harrell is the best I know of) and a good electronic scale instead.

You will find that those automatic dispensers are tediously slow and are utterly unnecessary when using ball powders or fine stick powders. A good powder measure will throw ball powder for a Grendel (about 30 grains) so uniformly that you do not need to worry about the huge variances in weight that we used to have with the old 4064 powder in a 30-06 or .308 for example.

LR55

[Goebela3]

I already ordered the chargemaster, I will probably get a good powder measure down the road. Thanks for the advice, this is all very confusing getting started.

[Sticks]

I use a simple Lee powder throw and a trickler on a scale that goes to .02 gr. The Lee, once I get it dialed, will throw consistently within .4 of target, then the trickler for the rest.

The Type S - Best to measure your brass case wall thickness at the neck, then do the math. My bushings are .286, .287, .288. I settled on .287 for .003 neck tension (Hornady Brass) for my ARs, and there is no bullet movement under free bolt travel. I could probably go with .001 for the Howa loading, but I worry about a dropped ammo box or rough handling causing movement.