Looking into the Grendel game for benchrest

[dtp]

A completely new guy here used to 22lr, .17hmr, and a little .223.

I'm looking to try out Grendel and am trying to figure out what kind of affordable uppers one can find that provides good 'precision'. By affordable, I'll say under 700 bucks for example, maybe a bit more.

I'm considering factors like barrel length and fluted vs non-fluted. Where I know fluted removes metal and reduces stiffness. But what about barrel length for general groups from 100 yards to 500 for example? Have members noticed any difference in barrel length? Does it matter than much or does everyone just go long for velocity?

Basically I'm looking to print small groups and this cartridge looks interesting, especially if a person moves outdoors. As in if I got say 20" nonfluted, would a person expect to shoot say 0.5 MOA or be all over the map where 16" would be superior?

sorry for the newb question, but after googlind and youtubing today. I found the general deal is a heavy short barrel gives you the biggest leeway regarding barrel harmonics, nodes, etc regarding the muzzle oscillation.

[NugginFutz]

Welcome to the Horde, dtp.

Well, there's mention of a heavy barreled bench rifle which prints small groups on this thread...
http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthrea...post169509

Biased as I might sound, it is only one example of a solid shooter.

Bedded 22" bull barrel and bedded block, built as solid as one can stand.

Original cost of that upper, sans glass, was:[INDENT]$275 for the barrel
$150 for the hand guard
$90 for the upper receiver
$55 for the gas block and tube
$150 for bolt carrier, w/ sacrificial 5.56 bolt
$75 for the grendel bolt[/INDENT]

Total cost of upper: $795

Little tiny holes all touching? Priceless.

[dtp]

Welcome to the Horde, dtp.

Well, there's mention of a heavy barreled bench rifle which prints small groups on this thread...

http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthread.php?15130-Larue-Ultimate-Upper-Progress-Report

Biased as I might sound, it is only one example of a solid shooter.

Bedded 22" bull barrel and bedded block, built as solid as one can stand.

Original cost of that upper, sans glass, was:[INDENT]$275 for the barrel
$150 for the hand guard
$90 for the upper receiver
$55 for the gas block and tube
$150 for bolt carrier, w/ sacrificial 5.56 bolt
$75 for the grendel bolt[/INDENT]

Total cost of upper: $795

Little tiny holes all touching? Priceless.

Thanks, so it sounds like no matter what length given I don't have the shakes starting at 100 yards decent groups would be possible with 6.5G. Well I guess by bedded there's more support so less of the barrel is left dangling?

[NugginFutz]

Thanks, so it sounds like no matter what length given I don't have the shakes starting at 100 yards decent groups would be possible with 6.5G. Well I guess by bedded there's more support so less of the barrel is left dangling?

By bedded, I mean that when the barrel was mated with the upper receiver, a modest amount of LocTite Blue was applied to the barrel extension so that, when fitted, any voids between the barrel and upper were filled. This is done to reduce movement and improve rigidity.

[dtp]

By bedded, I mean that when the barrel was mated with the upper receiver, a modest amount of LocTite Blue was applied to the barrel extension so that, when fitted, any voids between the barrel and upper were filled. This is done to reduce movement and improve rigidity.

Thanks. I Think I'll be settling on a Grendelhunter.com 20" non fluted nitride upper for now. Maybe 18" but the guy on the website says most of their uppers print similiar with perhaps a slight edge to 20".

[LR1955]

A completely new guy here used to 22lr, .17hmr, and a little .223.

I'm looking to try out Grendel and am trying to figure out what kind of affordable uppers one can find that provides good 'precision'. By affordable, I'll say under 700 bucks for example, maybe a bit more.

I'm considering factors like barrel length and fluted vs non-fluted. Where I know fluted removes metal and reduces stiffness. But what about barrel length for general groups from 100 yards to 500 for example? Have members noticed any difference in barrel length? Does it matter than much or does everyone just go long for velocity?

Basically I'm looking to print small groups and this cartridge looks interesting, especially if a person moves outdoors. As in if I got say 20" nonfluted, would a person expect to shoot say 0.5 MOA or be all over the map where 16" would be superior?

sorry for the newb question, but after googlind and youtubing today. I found the general deal is a heavy short barrel gives you the biggest leeway regarding barrel harmonics, nodes, etc regarding the muzzle oscillation.

DTP

Is there a category for gas operated rifles in bench rest competition? If so, you will still lose against things like a 6mm AR but at least you won't be totally humiliated.

Get the best barrel you can buy. Then you won't have to worry about things like short chambers, harmonics, etc. And you can bet that the barrel will be good. Go cheap and you are rolling the dice.

I offer this advice because knowing you have a top end barrel means you can look elsewhere when you find out that holding under a minute of angle for five shot groups, time after time, day after day, is pretty challenging. And that five shot groups under 1/2 minute are very, very, rare. My bet is that under very good conditions, a guy will hold 3/4 to one minute for consecutive groups fired on different days but using the same range, rest, ammo. This is still pretty good and indicates a good shooter, rifle, sighting system, and ammunition.

LR55

[Jerryz06]

started shooting benchrest in International Benchrest Shooters events in 1973. I still own several rifles. An “affordable” upper is questionable if you want a 1/2” gun. An accurate rifle depends on many factors. A great barrel is ruined by a crooked chamber. A perfectly straight chamber won’t shoot well with a bad barrel. I doubt seriously the potential of reaching your goal with a $700 upper. It’s possible but not probable. Match barrels are expensive, meticulous chamber cutting is time consuming and expensive. Can the seller of your upper tell you the amount of run-out in your chamber? Precision Firearms can but they cost twice your budget.

Barrel length is not that important but a longer barrel may make the gun nose heavy and be harder to control on the rest. Barrel harmonics are important but as long as they’re consistent you can develop a hand load that will shoot well. If you’re limited to factory loads harmonics may be a problem. To be honest your chances of having a legitimate 1/2” upper for $700 are slim.