New to building with lots of questions.

[Klem]

Thanks for the info Klem. I think I am going with a Midwest Industries GenII SS series. It is a clamp type handguard that comes with a barrel wrench that will probably involve locking the torque bar in the vise in a vertical position with the barrel pointing up, torque wrench on the supplied barrel wrench. At least thats the way I'm envisioning it. If that does not work I'm thinking I could machine a block to go in the vise to stabilize the supplied wrench, barrel pointing down, and torque with the torque bar from above.

Yes, nice choice. I am familiar with these. Good value for money with enough clearance inside for free-floating a clamping version of the Sentry 7 gas block.

The MW SS Gen2 comes with a barrel nut wrench (with 1/2' extension hole) but you don't need it if you have an AR Armourers wrench.

The barrel nut needs timing as it has the same teeth as the MILSPEC clamping barrel nut. So you need to line-up the teeth with the gas tube hole.

This is the configuration with the Brownells torque rod that worked for me. Clamp the armourers wrench in the vise. Do the barrel nut up hand-tight and lower the receiver/barrel barrel-down into the clamped armourers wrench. The Brownells rod comes in from the top as normal.


The rod looks a little worn and shiny. This is because it's a pretty tight fit in most receivers. You may need to wet-and-dry it a little. Receivers that have been anodised should be OK but if they have been Ceracoated it will be a tight fit.

[Heywood]

I pulled the trigger on the DEZ barrel. It arrived 3 days after ordering. Looks very nice. Time will tell on it's accuracy. My next question is, how do I hold my CMT billet upper to tighten the barrel? All the upper receiver vice blocks I've seen say they will NOT fit billet uppers as they are usually thicker/different profile than a mill spec forged upper. What is everyone using? Brownells sells one that attaches to the takedown lugs or top rail but was wondering if that will be enough support for torquing the barrel nut on.

I used two pieces of cedar and clamped it sideways top and bottom. As to the midwest industries genII, once you clamp the upper in just use the wrench they provide, it has a hole to attach your torque wrench.

[spectra]

I used two pieces of cedar and clamped it sideways top and bottom. As to the midwest industries genII, once you clamp the upper in just use the wrench they provide, it has a hole to attach your torque wrench.

I did that on my very first build as I could not wait for the clamp to show up in the mail. I tried using a friends block but the upper would not fit. The Cedar does work but after the first one I probably would not do it again.

[Klem]

I used two pieces of cedar and clamped it sideways top and bottom. As to the midwest industries genII, once you clamp the upper in just use the wrench they provide, it has a hole to attach your torque wrench.

Up to you as to what degree of precision you are looking for in this. Has been discussed at length in another thread but the consensus is that you need to be careful not to flex the receiver when doing up the barrel nut.

While 2 bits of wood is quicker and cheaper than a $40 Brownells torque rod (and cheaper again than Geissele's $100 version of the same) the opposing torque will include the front of the aluminium receiver. With the Midwest handguard design this flexing force can be exaggerated if the teeth on their barrel nut do not conveniently line up with the gas tube hole at the lower end of the torque range. The one I did took 60lbs to line up.

Similarly, how you plan to secure the muzzle device to the barrel is worth thinking about. Again, two blocks of wood or those clamping receiver blocks might seem convenient and cost effective if you don't have vise clamps or a barrel vise but the same thing will happen. Sideways torque on the receiver as you do up the device.

I would also suggest that if using two blocks of wood that at least the barrel points vertically, not horizontally while you work on it. The jaws of your normal vise like in my picture encourage horizontal work and with that your heavy barrel will be under the influence of gravity as you do up the barrel nut. For the sake of turning the work 90 degrees you can ensure even pressure on the critical area of the receiver tunnel face while doing it up.

Again, up to you as to how you want to do this. It boils down to what degree of precision and effort you are prepared to go to, and pay for. It may make a difference or it may just be peace of mind.

[Wonk]

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I will definitely purchase the Brownells Torque tool as I know my luck.

Next question is about compensators/flash hiders. Recommendations? Pros/cons? 5/8-24 muzzle thread.

[Heywood]

Up to you as to what degree of precision you are looking for in this. Has been discussed at length in another thread but the consensus is that you need to be careful not to flex the receiver when doing up the barrel nut.

While 2 bits of wood is quicker and cheaper than a $40 Brownells torque rod (and cheaper again than Geissele's $100 version of the same) the opposing torque will include the front of the aluminium receiver. With the Midwest handguard design this flexing force can be exaggerated if the teeth on their barrel nut do not conveniently line up with the gas tube hole at the lower end of the torque range. The one I did took 60lbs to line up.

Similarly, how you plan to secure the muzzle device to the barrel is worth thinking about. Again, two blocks of wood or those clamping receiver blocks might seem convenient and cost effective if you don't have vise clamps or a barrel vise but the same thing will happen. Sideways torque on the receiver as you do up the device.

I would also suggest that if using two blocks of wood that at least the barrel points vertically, not horizontally while you work on it. The jaws of your normal vise like in my picture encourage horizontal work and with that your heavy barrel will be under the influence of gravity as you do up the barrel nut. For the sake of turning the work 90 degrees you can ensure even pressure on the critical area of the receiver tunnel face while doing it up.

Again, up to you as to how you want to do this. It boils down to what degree of precision and effort you are prepared to go to, and pay for. It may make a difference or it may just be peace of mind.

That tool would be helpful as long as you do not need to press fit a barrel into a non standard receiver they do not make a block for. I use cedar as it is soft and conforms exactly to the shape of the receiver with minimal pressure. I would probably spend the $40 on the tool just for peace of mind if I had a sloppy barrel to receiver fit. It wouldn't be a bad tool to have around.

[Klem]

That tool would be helpful as long as you do not need to press fit a barrel into a non standard receiver they do not make a block for. I use cedar as it is soft and conforms exactly to the shape of the receiver with minimal pressure. I would probably spend the $40 on the tool just for peace of mind if I had a sloppy barrel to receiver fit. It wouldn't be a bad tool to have around.

If that happens then I agree you have to get creative. This is not about torqueing-up barrel nuts or muzzle devices but getting the barrel into the receiver in the first place. If it is a bit tight I use a Davidson barrel vise to clamp the barrel as close to the barrel extension as possible. Then put the Davidson in a vise so the barrel hangs vertically. Then tap the receiver on with a rubber mallet using a piece of wood that spreads the force over the back end of the receiver. With the barrel extension greased it slowly closes.

Other posters have advised heating the receiver in an oven while cooling the barrel in a freezer. Never tried it so cannot comment.

[montana]

If that happens then I agree you have to get creative. This is not about torqueing-up barrel nuts or muzzle devices but getting the barrel into the receiver in the first place. If it is a bit tight I use a Davidson barrel vise to clamp the barrel as close to the barrel extension as possible. Then put the Davidson in a vise so the barrel hangs vertically. Then tap the receiver on with a rubber mallet using a piece of wood that spreads the force over the back end of the receiver. With the barrel extension greased it slowly closes.

Other posters have advised heating the receiver in an oven while cooling the barrel in a freezer. Never tried it so cannot comment.

Klem, this does work. We do this with bearing races "cups" all the time.

[Wonk]

I will be ordering my bolt carrier soon. What is the difference in a $129 High Standard carrier and a $189 Daniel Defense and a $215 JP carrier etc, etc (other than price)? : ) What does everyone suggest for a decent carrier for a reasonable price and why should I get this one over that one?

[spectra]

I am going to try this one https://www.rubbercityarmory.com/scripts...product=49 I want to try the adjustable gas key instead of the gas block. I have all sorts in other builds and all seem to work the same for me. I do have a high dollar NIB one in a suppressed rifle and it does clean up real easy but not worth it to me in the Grendel.

[Wonk]

So I finally got my forearm and built a "bench wrench block" to safely torque the barrel. I was going to mill out the profile of the barrel wrench inletting it into the aluminum block but the mill was tied up so I just tried it "as is". Worked great.

Now if I could just get Magpul to get some FDE PRS stocks into circulation I could finish it.

[IMG][/IMG]

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[badmoon692008]

So I finally got my forearm and built a "bench wrench block" to safely torque the barrel. I was going to mill out the profile of the barrel wrench inletting it into the aluminum block but the mill was tied up so I just tried it "as is". Worked great.

Now if I could just get Magpul to get some FDE PRS stocks into circulation I could finish it.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Just because it feels good to help people spend their money...
https://secure.wf-api.com/www.precisionf...l-prs.html
I don't see anything saying it's out of stock....

[Wonk]

Thanks so much. I called Precision and they said they had it in stock. It's also $12 cheaper than Brownells so I ordered a 10 round mag with it and spent the same amount. Win win.

[badmoon692008]

Thanks so much. I called Precision and they said they had it in stock. It's also $12 cheaper than Brownells so I ordered a 10 round mag with it and spent the same amount. Win win.

Glad I could help!

[Wonk]

Thank you everyone for all the info and help. Now I just need money for optics and ammo. Can't wait to get this thing on the range.

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[VASCAR2]

Looking good be sure and give us a range report.