Mounting bipod

[davidj]

Got my AA upper however I am having trouble mounting a Harris type bipod. I don't know if the mounting lug on the free float hand guard is in the wrong place or if the bipod is defective. Whatever the cause ...the result is a canted scope/barrel unless I add an inch to the left leg.
Anybody ever have this problem?





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[bwaites]

david,

Is the lug directly beneath the barrel, or canted a little off to one side? Its hard to tell from the picture.

Harris bipods do sometimes have some play, but that looks a little strange!

[LR1955]

Got my AA upper however I am having trouble mounting a Harris type bipod. I don't know if the mounting lug on the free float hand guard is in the wrong place or if the bipod is defective. Whatever the cause ...the result is a canted scope/barrel unless I add an inch to the left leg. Anybody ever have this problem?

Dave:

I am sure some have had that problem but looking at the picture of the rifle with bipod, it seems to me that when you get into position the rifle will move enough to get it vertical. I haven't seen one yet that stood straight up when resting the stock on something.

So, what happens when you get into position?

LR1955

[davidj]

david,

Is the lug directly beneath the barrel, or canted a little off to one side? Its hard to tell from the picture.

Harris bipods do sometimes have some play, but that looks a little strange!

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[davidj]

Dave:

I am sure some have had that problem but looking at the picture of the rifle with bipod, it seems to me that when you get into position the rifle will move enough to get it vertical. I haven't seen one yet that stood straight up when resting the stock on something.

So, what happens when you get into position?

LR1955

I have to lift the left leg up an inch.
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[mtn_shooter]

I know it doesn't help you now, but for this reason I get the models that allow cant.

[LR1955]

I have to lift the left leg up an inch.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]154[/ATTACH]

Dave:

OK -- the sling swivel screws are fine. There is only one other factor and that is the bipod.

Looking at the photo, it appears that the right leg (as you are looking at it from the front / photo) is canted out more than the left leg. This would give it the list you are noting.

I have seen a number of Joe's doing field repairs on their Harris bipods. Leatherman and BFR's are the normal tools of choice. They normally end up breaking the bipod.

LR1955

[davidj]

Dave:

OK -- the sling swivel screws are fine. There is only one other factor and that is the bipod.

Looking at the photo, it appears that the right leg (as you are looking at it from the front / photo) is canted out more than the left leg. This would give it the list you are noting.

I have seen a number of Joe's doing field repairs on their Harris bipods. Leatherman and BFR's are the normal tools of choice. They normally end up breaking the bipod.

LR1955

I will check and see. You mention some things that I didn't notice. Who knows ...my normal tools of choice usually involve electricity;>)

[rasp65]

Dave
On my Harris bipod when you open the legs and look at it from the bottom there is a brass plate that has adjustment left or right to center the clips to the stud. Check yours out and see if it is not centered.

[rasp65]

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Here is a picture of the brass plate that adjusts to the left or right.

[davidj]

Dave
On my Harris bipod when you open the legs and look at it from the bottom there is a brass plate that has adjustment left or right to center the clips to the stud. Check yours out and see if it is not centered.

It is centered. I tried to offset the plate to see if it would have an effect. It just slid back to center. I think you are right though. That plate seems to be the key. I will keep working at it. Thanks.

[Rust]

From the last picture it looks like the tension screw is at a considerable angle relative to the legs and the body of the bipod. Makes me think the tube is offset, or something is out of whack in the bipod base. A way to check if things are mounted parallel to one another is called "boning". Where you use to pieces of metal or dowel to check parallelism. Couple ways I usually go about it. Either pull your scope, and set the receiver upside down on a flat level surface. (you'll need to weight or strap it down or block the barrel up to keep it from leaning forward.) Put a tight fitting dowel or drill bit into the hole of the sling stud and take a step back to compare if the dowel or whatever is at the same angle as the table the receiver is sitting on. Works best if you have a long drill bit or piece of drill rod that will fit the hole perfectly since a smaller piece will want to lean to one side. Or can also do this in an action vise or something similar to avoid pulling the scope. You just need to have a set up that will keep everything solid and level enough to balance one "bone" on the top rails so you can hold the other square in the sling stud hole unless you have something that will fit it without sagging to one side.

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