Siezed gas block adjustment screw
#21
D.Davis Wrote:SH, for myself I buy it buy the gallon. Try it let it soak it, it wicks, tell me what you think. Dave.

So that's a "no". It's just one of your favorite cleaning solutions.
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#22
SH,

What exactly did you do and for how long?

Heated it up? What was the liquid?
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#23
Klem, I probably ran 20 cycles of 30 minutes in my RCBS ultrasonic cleaner in distilled water with Hornady parts cleaning solution at 140 degrees. If you look at the picture, the screw is open at the port meaning the carbon buildup has been subjected to thousands of cycles of 20,000 psi pressure. Plus, I had almost exclusively used CFE 223 (at least I didn't have any copper build up Big Grin). The ultrasonic time was enough to dissolve several large carbon deposits on my JP 3 port compensator that were hard as a rock and looked like an ebony version of the Himalayas. The bath water ended up looking a bit like Jaegermeister.

It's moot now that the screw head is stripped. I gave it a try. Now I can justify getting a Superlative if I end up with a 0.936 journal barrel.
Let's go Brandon!
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#24
StoneHendge Wrote:I gave it a try. Now I can justify getting a Superlative if I end up with a 0.936 journal barrel.

I'm wondering if this salvage mission wasn't doomed from the start (mind was made up to get that new shiny)? Smile
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#25
SH,

20 cycles, Wow - Amazing it is so resilient.
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#26
Late to the party but I would’ve used KG Carbon remover. I soak my AR Bolts and carriers in it and it dissolves carbon like nothing I’ve seen. I love kroil, but probably wouldn’t work for this application
Member since 2011, data lost in last hack attack
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#27
Ric, the KG is very similar to the Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. One wipe with a damp patch will do a better job on things that people will soak in Hoppe's for days (stinking up their house while they wait). I use the Bore Tech over KG because I like their logo better (plus I can get it locally). In hindsight I would have tried that first too, but in hindsight I also would have bought a gas block that I could adjust with the handguard on! Everything is a learning experience....

Add: cost also came into play since with the gas tube stuck in, it would have needed a few ounces to soak. I was also running the Ultrasonic anyways to clean the compensator.
Let's go Brandon!
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#28
StoneHendge Wrote:Ric, the KG is very similar to the Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. One wipe with a damp patch will do a better job on things that people will soak in Hoppe's for days (stinking up their house while they wait). I use the Bore Tech over KG because I like their logo better (plus I can get it locally). In hindsight I would have tried that first too, but in hindsight I also would have bought a gas block that I could adjust with the handguard on! Everything is a learning experience....

Add: cost also came into play since with the gas tube stuck in, it would have needed a few ounces to soak. I was also running the Ultrasonic anyways to clean the compensator.

I had one of those JP two peice blocks once. Ran into the same problem you did. Plus it ended up warping badly and wouldnt make a clean seal and started leaking gas around the barrel and block.

Moved on to the slr blocks. Really like their adjustable blocks, you can take them apart more for cleaning then most of the blocks I have used before.

I try not too let my guns go more then 400 rounds without adjusting the block 2 clicks in and out and then set it back to where it needs to be. Helps keep it from freezing up.
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#29
StoneHendge Wrote:Well, the Ultrasonic cleaner didn't work. Even the gas tube is still stuck in. I'm guessing the carbon buildup is halfway to being a synthetic diamond. The carbon is subjected to gas port pressures with this design:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17730[/ATTACH]

The problem probably isn't with carbon in the threads - rather build up on the exposed screw that won't allow it to fit into the threads.

Screw head is stripped. Was going to take it to the dumpster, but since it still has the gas tube and is 2 piece, it will make a novel support for a potted chile pepper plant on the deck. I'll put the $20 I could have spent on Kroil towards a Superlative that won't have this problem and that can be accessed under any handguard

Gas tubes can be removed with heat and a gas tube remover https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools...25017.aspx. I have removed them by putting the gas tube in a leather padded vice and tapping on the back of the receiver with a rubber mallet. I would also try to drill the screw head and remove with an easy out. Looking at the picture,, the adj screw end could be accessed through the gas tube hole with a small diamond cut head rotary tool..
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#30
StoneHendge Wrote:You've used it to loosen a carbon baked and pressure cooked gas block adjustment screw?

How about soaking it in CLR? And/or maybe CLR in a sonic cleaner?

https://youtu.be/xte_pf3ZhsA
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#31
Harpoon1 Wrote:How about soaking it in CLR? And/or maybe CLR in a sonic cleaner?

https://youtu.be/xte_pf3ZhsA

The cayenne pepper seedling has sprouted. It's only a matter of time before it will require a stake for support.....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17759[/ATTACH]


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Let's go Brandon!
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#32
maybe off topic, maybe not, but perhaps a reason to run an old fashioned fixed gas block? do they ever plug up? just pondering out loud.
-tdbru
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#33
They don't plug up, but after a while you can't get the gas tube off it.
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#34
If it was threadlocked then i would try some "GOOF OFF" super glue remover that, cuts threadlock really well not sure it's effects on carbon.
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