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Joined: Jul 2019
Long time lurkers first post. I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge and common sense here! I was under the impression when you pull a trigger the hammer should not have to move back against spring load. I heard all the (don't try improve) original trigger, buy a replacement. So I decided if the trigger with the lower build kit is junk then I can play with it. And yes the heavy pull was moving the hammer back. I filed, stoned and carefully polished till very little backwards movement. Triggers are still on the stout side but a beautiful break like a piece of class and that I can live with. My type of shooting is load development so my guns never get more than a dozen or so rounds thru at a time. My barrels never get blistering hot so I do not see any problems with this but I appeal to the knowledgeable for input.
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nekshot Wrote:Long time lurkers first post. I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge and common sense here! I was under the impression when you pull a trigger the hammer should not have to move back against spring load. I heard all the (don't try improve) original trigger, buy a replacement. So I decided if the trigger with the lower build kit is junk then I can play with it. And yes the heavy pull was moving the hammer back. I filed, stoned and carefully polished till very little backwards movement. Triggers are still on the stout side but a beautiful break like a piece of class and that I can live with. My type of shooting is load development so my guns never get more than a dozen or so rounds thru at a time. My barrels never get blistering hot so I do not see any problems with this but I appeal to the knowledgeable for input.
ns:
A lot of guys do exactly what you did with a stock service grade trigger and their results are what yours are. Other guys tried to make things better by changing angles on parts and that process normally failed.
LR55
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nekshot,
i have heard that the surfaces in the GI trigger are surface hardened to reduce wear. i also have heard admonitions about tweaking the GI parts unless you can re-surface harden them correctly. this is only what i've heard and i don't know the amount of true or fiction in the remarks. perhaps someone who knows can pipe up. so i just swapped in a foxtrot mike FM-9 trigger assembly.
-tdbru
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Ill polish any tooling marks off original surfaces. Maybe shorten the sear engagement by .010-.020, but dont like changing angles. I did once. Started double firing so I trashed that one.
Other things Ill do is grind off the top rear of trigger where it engages safety, then install a 1/4-28 set screw in grip screw hole to take most of the creep out of trigger. With safety engaged, turn set screw until it contacts safety, then back off to allow safety to work freely. Set screw needs loctite. Sometimes the disconnect may need shortening by a few thousandths to work properly. Lastly replace the trigger and hammer springs with JP 3.5T springs and you have a good trigger for $30 or so and about 30 minutes labor.
Member since 2011, data lost in last hack attack
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Go to joebobsoutfitters website and get the trigger tension screw and kaw valley reduced power springs and add them to your worked over trigger.
Then it will be a great trigger.
Posts: 7
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Joined: Jul 2019
A5BLASTER Wrote:Go to joebobsoutfitters website and get the trigger tension screw and kaw valley reduced power springs and add them to your worked over trigger.
Then it will be a great trigger.
I totally forgot about the reduced springs available. Thanks
