My new set up with a liberty barrel....

[gophernuts]

Midwest industries 15in SS Handguard
18in Liberty Barrel
WCI Break
Vltor L-Pro gas block

It feels nice. I was shocked at the size of the break, it really weighs down the front end of the rifle. When it is threaded all the way on there is still a gap between where the barrel is milled out for the threads and the rear-most part of the break....which drives me freaking nuts. That could be due to the barrel manufacturer or WCI. Either way though, it feels nice and is light enough to carry all day without dying. So there it is finally.




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[kamrr4437]

Nah you dont want that rifle man i think you should give it to me

[LRRPF52]

gophernuts,

Pretty sweet-lookin'. What optics are you using?

LRRPF52

[gophernuts]

Bushnell HD 4200...not my first choice but it works.

[Snew]

When it is threaded all the way on there is still a gap between where the barrel is milled out for the threads and the rear-most part of the break....which drives me freaking nuts. That could be due to the barrel manufacturer or WCI.

I'd guess you need a relief in the back of the brake. Any machine shop can do it. quick and easy.

You'r rifle is eerily similar to my build. Weird, huh?

[warped]

There is supposed to be a very small gap between the brake and the shoulder, it is so that the bearing is against the crown and not the shoulder, is everything is just right on the bbl it will be only 0.005"

[warped]

I'd guess you need a relief in the back of the brake. Any machine shop can do it. quick and easy.

You'r rifle is eerily similar to my build. Weird, huh?

Do not machine that brake! Snew I know you did not know this but please don't tell someone to do anything concerning machining on a WCI brake.

I know why....take my word for it.

[rkflorey]

Are you happy with the Liberty barrel? I am considering a similar build for a hunting rifle to go with my 22" CSS long range rifle.

[WillD]

What is the reason for not machining your brakes warped?

[warped]

1. It will void the warranty

2. Because the brake is made to fit with a slight gap between the brake and the shoulder.

3. Deepening the brake will break through the internal face and ruin it.

4. Many machinists will not understand how it is made and make into junk once they "touch it up"

I say this because it has happened already and those customers wound up buying a new brake.

5. The threaded end of the bbl is supposed to be .625" it has been a standard for about 100 years now.

I make the brake well depth .620"

6.. The timing of the brake depends on the depth, even a thousandth makes it different.

Thank you for asking.

If it bothers someone to see a very small gap they can use a neoprene O ring, most everyone seems to not be bothered.

Also it is not good to use a washer unless you can take the thickness down to 0.001" less than the gap.

The brake needs to be bottomed out, unfortunately some bbl manufacturers vary on threaded length and have also not had precise shoulders so that if the brake were to bear on it it would be wrong.

There are thousands of WCI brakes out there, only in a handful of cases was that gap excessive and most chose to have the bbl corrected.

Two guys had a washer machined until it was 0.001" less than the gap. one had a threaded length of .710" and the other was .750" (way off)

7. To risk alignment problems would be dangerous as the brake is longer than many other FH or brake.

It is much like having a bad alignment on a suppressor, you would not want that to happen.