Annealing 6.5 Grendel Brass

[hazzbro]

Setup my Annealeez 2.0 with the small case wheels and annealed my 6.5 Grendel brass. Not sure it really needed it yet but this is so easy I tend to anneal at least after 2 firings if not every time.

Hopefully it's useful to some.

Hazz

https://youtu.be/R-Wbg11jQHA

[A5BLASTER]

Every 4th fireing works fine for my hornady, Starline and PPU brass.

[FLshooter]

I have an Annealeez 2,0. So far I’ve been annealing all my brass w/the standard wheels that came with it.I did send out for the smaller wheels so I can do 300 black out. I got them a while back but I still haven’t figured out how to take the wheels off .The video shows how to change the wheels on a 1,0 ,but not the 2.0 if somebody can post a link or explain to me how to remove the wheels so I’d appreciate it.

[centerfire]

Setup my Annealeez 2.0 with the small case wheels and annealed my 6.5 Grendel brass. Not sure it really needed it yet but this is so easy I tend to anneal at least after 2 firings if not every time.

Hopefully it's useful to some.

Hazz

https://youtu.be/R-Wbg11jQHA

Thanks for the video, it was well done.

I've found that, regardless of the brand, neck tension is inconsistent in new brass. I think that an initial annealing does a world of good to normalize the brass hardness regardless of the frequency you anneal afterward. Again, regardless of brand, be it Hornady, Lapua, Peterson, Alpha, Starline, whatever. All of it needs an initial annealing and the sooner the better.

[hazzbro]

I have an Annealeez 2,0. So far I’ve been annealing all my brass w/the standard wheels that came with it.I did send out for the smaller wheels so I can do 300 black out. I got them a while back but I still haven’t figured out how to take the wheels off .The video shows how to change the wheels on a 1,0 ,but not the 2.0 if somebody can post a link or explain to me how to remove the wheels so I’d appreciate it.

FLshooter, just to be clear that is an Annealeez 2.0 that I changed the wheels on.

[hazzbro]

Thanks for the video, it was well done.

I've found that, regardless of the brand, neck tension is inconsistent in new brass. I think that an initial annealing does a world of good to normalize the brass hardness regardless of the frequency you anneal afterward. Again, regardless of brand, be it Hornady, Lapua, Peterson, Alpha, Starline, whatever. All of it needs an initial annealing and the sooner the better.

So would you anneal new brass or just after once firing it?

[centerfire]

So would you anneal new brass or just after once firing it?

Prior to the first time you load the brass; Brand new or once fired if it is brass from loaded factory ammo. Treat it all like it is once fired LC milspec. Anneal, turn if needed, size, trim, chamfer, etc. The amount of BS I've dealt with lately from the Peterson and Lapua is ridiculous; just start from zero and assume none of it is right...because it probably isn't.

[Mad Charlie]

Centerfire, this board needs a "Thanks" button.

[JASmith]

I full-length size after annealing.

The metal will work-harden a bit with the softer ones tending to harden a bit more that the hard cases. The result is all are closer to the same yield strength.

That helps make neck tension more consisted from round to round.

[FLshooter]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15918[/ATTACH]

FLshooter, just to be clear that is an Annealeez 2.0 that I changed the wheels on.

I was able to take pictures and post them here’s what my Annealeez 2.0 looks like


[ATTACH=CONFIG]15918[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15919[/ATTACH]

[FLshooter]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15918[/ATTACH]
I was able to take pictures and post them here’s what my Annealeez 2.0 looks like


[ATTACH=CONFIG]15918[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15919[/ATTACH]

I’m a bonehead!
Those are 7/16 nuts. They just appear to be round when you’re looking at him from the front.Both wheels took me a minute to change out. Easier than tying my shoelaces!