Looking to get a 6.5 Grendel and have multiple questions

[shotgunshooter3]

Hey all I'm new here and new to the 6.5 Grendel, but not new to shooting or AR's.

My big project this year gun-wise is going to be finding a good 6.5 Grendel upper and begin handloading for it.

What I plan to do is to replace the MOE on this lower with either an A2, an Ace, or a Magpul ACS, and then drop in a RRA NM Trigger. I think the collapsible stock is neat, but for what I do I really don't need it for the carbine or a Grendel upper.


I intend to use the 6.5 Grendel for paper punching, hunting, and long range shooting (probably in that order). Length, etc, are of no concern for me, but I also don't see myself needing all the "tactical" features such as quad rail, etc.

I am envisioning something that is more or less a basic varmint style AR upper, but perhaps with a monolithic upper and top rail (so it would look kind of like an upper with a Samson evolution on it, http://www.samson-mfg.com/ar-15_html/pro...on_15.html) which would give me more flexibility in mounting the scope, plus I could put a small segment of rail at the end for a bipod.

So, here are my questions:

1- Where should I be looking for the upper? I'd much rather not pay the almost $1K for an upper from Alexander Arms, but if I must so be it.

2- What barrel length do I need to get the most performance possible from the Grendel? I'm not afraid of a longer barrel, but if I don't need it I would like to save the weight.

3- Are there any brands of upper I should be avoiding?

4- What else should I be asking?

Thanks in advance for any help!

[COTNTOP]

Rumors are that AA is about to upgrade on options, such as cut rifle barrels. That is what I am waiting for. Have a 24 AWS with Shilen upgrade and love it.

[shotgunshooter3]

Interesting. Honestly besides the top rail all I really want as far as options is a threaded muzzle for a muzzle brake.

[RangerRick]

Welcome SGS3,

Since doping the wind becomes dominant at long range, higher muzzle velocity helps that. A 24 inch barrel is about optimum for that. It already starts to get a little front heavy with a 24, so any longer and it gets pretty unbalanced and you get diminishing return on the extra barrel length.

If you drop back to a 20 inch tube, you'll lose about 100-120 fps with the same ammo.

Another question you should ask is: "What reloading dies should I get?" The Redding Type-S bushing dies allow you to resize the minimum amount necessary to preserve your Grendel brass. The brass is still expensive, so that factors into the cost.

The biggest limitation on reloading is probably the constraint of having to fit in the magazine (2.26 inches). That keeps you from getting the right jump with some bullets which need it for accuracy. It also limits case volume, particularly with heavier (longer) bullets. So you won't be able to cram in as much powder as you might like with low density powders (particularly stick types).

So you need to pick a good powder/bullet combination to get best results.

An example is the Hornady 120 grain AMax. Great bullet, but too fat in front for the Grendel. So Hornady developed the 123 AMax specifically for the Grendel. Great bullet! It's meant as a target bullet, but some guys hunt small deer with it.

In case you haven't seen it yet Alexander Arms has some good reloading data on their site: http://alexanderarms.com/images/pdfs/gre...oading.pdf

Good Luck!

RR

[Mutt]

Well, I say build. You can get a good bolt barrel combo from Alexander Arms and put it into your own upper reciever and pick out your own furniture for it.

Surplus Arms and Ammo makes a really good upper reciever .........

http://www.surplusammo.com/stripped-uppers/

18-20 inch barrel will be more than enough barrel.

[shotgunshooter3]

Well, I say build. You can get a good bolt barrel combo from Alexander Arms and put it into your own upper reciever and pick out your own furniture for it.

Surplus Arms and Ammo makes a really good upper reciever .........

http://www.surplusammo.com/stripped-uppers/

18-20 inch barrel will be more than enough barrel.

I have considered doing this, but when I was building my .223 I decided it wasn't worth the cost of tooling up. What tools do I need to install a barrel? If it is cost advantageous I may look into it, I'm definitely not afraid to put things together myself.

[LRRPF52]

Welcome. You'll need maybe $50 in AR-specific tools that you will use on 5.56 as well into the future. They are the upper receiver action jaws, and an armorer's wrench. You should already have a solid work bench, vice, punch sets, mallets, brass hammer, insulating blocks for circulars (barrel), and common tools.

I would suggest looking into an ITS Super Bolt and barrel combo from AR Performance, as well as a hard use bolt and cut-rifled barrel from Alexander Arms. I think 20" is a good length for reaching out to the max effective range with the Grendel, but a fluted 28" from AA actually balances much better than I ever thought one could, especially with the carbon fiber G10 handguard.

An equally important component set for consideration should be your optics and mount, as you're wasting all your effort with substandard optics with cheap gears that can't hold zero or track.

[Mutt]

He's right ..... all you really need (AR specific) are these .........

Barrel Nut Wrench

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/747639/...tool-ar-15

Reciever Clamp

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/310152/...-set-ar-15

Everything else is tool box stuff ..... hammer, punch, allen wrenches etc ...


P.S. ...... you can find these two tools for much cheaper (if you look) than midway charges. Someone close to you may even let you borrow them.

[shotgunshooter3]

He's right ..... all you really need (AR specific) are these .........

Barrel Nut Wrench

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/747639/...tool-ar-15

Reciever Clamp

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/310152/...-set-ar-15

Everything else is tool box stuff ..... hammer, punch, allen wrenches etc ...


P.S. ...... you can find these two tools for much cheaper (if you look) than midway charges. Someone close to you may even let you borrow them.

This is all very interesting. Where can I get go/no-go gauges for a 6.5 Grendel?

So, I'm assuming I need the following parts:

Barrel
Bolt
Bolt Carrier group with all associated parts
Stripped upper (or perhaps just upper without bolt/barrel)
Gas tube
Gas block
Some form of handguard

What am I missing? I already have a lower for the rifle to go on, and a RRA scope mount waiting for a good scope (probably a Nikon Monarch 2.5-10).

[stokesrj]

If you get a barrel bolt combo, they come already headspaced so you don't need go/no-go guages.
Bob

[StoneTower]

PRI makes great wrenches.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/288479/...ndle-ar-15

Before the above one came out, I got one of these

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/123930/...ench-ar-15

and machined the hole in the center larger to clear the chamber end of my Armalite Ar10 barrel which uses the same pattern on the barrel nut. The 5 pins really hold well. If they had the above wrench for only $10 more at the time, I would have purchased that one as life would have been easier.

You really don't need a vice block. If you are handy and have a table saw, you can make some flat blocks of MDF with a grove in one of them and clamp the upper in the vice that way. I took a piece of 3/4 MDF about 2 inches wide and as long as the picatinny rail and cut a groove about 1/8 inch deep in it so that the picatinny would not slip. I them made a small piece that would fit between the takedown pins that was also about 2 inches wide. If you are only going to build one or two, it will save you some money. You have to know your limitations and make sure that you do not damage anything. There are videos online illustrating this method.

If you get a flat top upper that has the forward assist assembled, and you use a clamp on gas block you should only need a good torque wrench, a good bench vice, the barrel nut wrench and about 20 minutes.

[Rambozo]

I agree with these other guys. I say build it. That way, you have control over all of the parts. You can get sprinco springs if you want, a PWS DI Carrier, whatever buffer, etc. It's all up to you. Plus, in time you will likely collect enough spare parts to just whip other uppers together later. You know, just one or two parts away from a whole other upper, lower, or whatever.

Just get a good barrel. And if you go optics, get something that works. Remember, the optic is the operating system. Sweet hardware is only as good as its operating system.