can loctite 242 work? 243 doesnt seem to be on loctites website
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tallhorse89 Wrote:can loctite 242 work? 243 doesnt seem to be on loctites website
http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/produ...0000000HX2
It's on their Industrial site, but I think I used 242 on mine.
Locktie is an Anaerobic presence of metal and lack of air cause it to cure and as stated it should cure over night if your not using a primer excelerator which can make it tricky to work with causing quicker cure times. I apply and let the stuff work over night.
I had one high end builder of AR's, and Grendels tell me that of greater importance than the amount of torque on the barrel nut, is insuring that where the barrel extension meets with the upper receiver needs to be completely square. He said that about 80% of the uppers he checks are off just a bit, and that it is quite easy to face the receiver to square with the appropriate tool.
I true the faces on my uppers. Yes, a large amount are pretty screwed up surprisingly.
Some also think it may help with the broken bolts that have happened to some guns.
bump good info that I couldn't let die.
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stokesrj Wrote:I had read and believed it was a critical accuracy factor that the barrel nut be torqued to a specific value. However when I went to the NRA school of Gunsmithing at Trinidad Colorado to take a class on building National Match M16/AR15 rifles capable of winning the national match I found out differently. I showed up with my newly purchased Brownells Armorers kit complete with torque wrench. They kind of laughed at me and said why did you go spend all that money. All you need is a set of punches, an armorers wrench, a strap wrench, a hammer, and vice blocks.
The first rifle I built, I torqued it to 35 lbs but a tooth on the barrel nut lined up perfectly centered on the gas tube passageway. The instructor said back it off, and tighten a couple of times and just take it to whatever is required to line it up. I watched my torque wrench go to 80 lbs and that wasn't enough, then 90, and then 95 until it finally lined up. I was sure this would warp the receiver or something but the instructor just chuckled and said don't worry about it.
That Instructor was John Holliger who builds more national match winning AR's than anyone, his rifles dominate the national matches. He is also in the top 20 or so competitors every year at the national matches for the past 10 years of so, is a distinguished rifleman, Presidents 100, and High Master, so he knows.
That rifle shot less than .5 MOA for the life of the barrel and is now on its third barrel. I used it to shoot my personal best national match course in a registered match a 493-27X (485 is high master) so it certainly didn't hurt it to torque the barrel nut to nearly 3X the recommended force.
I later learned that John has two runs of barrel nuts made each time he orders then from Compass Lake Engineering an A and a B batch of 1,500 each. One barrel nut batch is run with one CNC mill setting, the second batch is indexed a half gas tube diameter and run. If the torque required to line it up is greater than 60 lbs or so he goes to the opposite batch, A to B or B to A. John claims it is absolutely not critical if the torque is 30 ft lbs or 60 ft lbs.
I hope that helps your understanding, it is what I learned.
Bob
John Hollinger told me personally that he won't let an upper from his shop with less than 50 ft lbs of torque. He uses Red Loc-Tite on his barrel extensions. I wimp out and use Loc-Tite Blue (242). My White Oak barrel nut does not have to be aligned with the gas tube.
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12-28-2013, 02:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2013, 02:51 PM by Kikn.)
ricsmall Wrote:to give you an idea, the bolts that hold the axle on your vehichle are @ 45-55ft lbs.
I'm going to assume you meant to say drive shaft not axles. As I have replaced quite a few axels on the rear of a rwd car are torqued to 220-240 ft-lb. Even the wheel lug nuts should be torqued to 75-80 ft-lb.and check after driving but never while the wheels are hot. Although the drive shaft is generally 45 ft-lb
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If you are using a torque wrench on your lug nuts on your car though...you know you were either born German...or have just been made an honorary one. lol
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lol... it is funny that you say that.... I'm pretty anal about things that are precise in engineering. Those guys get paid a lit of money to do math and provide specs using that math. I do auto "road" racing in my spare time with a series wins in the 24 hours of lemons. Two of the guys on the team are German and one of the two engineers is German.
But even before that I still torqued my wheel lugs
Even when reloading I don't trust the powder dispenser I measure every load....until I recently bought myself an automatic dispenser. Best money I ever spent that thing saves me so much time I wish I did it a long time ago.
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The rims on my sunny day car are impossible to replace. If I need tires i take them off the car and take them down to the tire shop. If you dont want to warp aluminum rims it is important to torque in star pattern. A torque wrench is your friend. But if you dont care and that works for you good luck.
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Walter, it was just levity bub. I am keen to do things properly as long as there is a reason to do so as well.
Kikn, I am considering an auto dispenser, and I think you just talked me into it. I loled at 24 hours of lemons...i bet that is a lot of fun. I used to live in Germany and absolutely adore those folks...I might even have been inclined to retire there if not for the gun policies.
