Need help breaking in new barrel

[Jorge0272]

Hi guys,
I am sure you are all aware, there is an ammo shortage.
Built up a new 6.5 Grendel. Previous barrel was the 18" group buy. Got terrible accuracy. Well not terrible, but not even close to what I wanted. (1.5" - 2.5" MOA)
Went ahead and got an Odin 20" DMR barrel with adjustable gas block.
Issue is, I have no factory ammo to get a base with. I reload and can reload whatever, but I have no idea what to expect since I have no factory stuff to run through it first.
What should I do? Just go ahead and do a ladder test?
Keep waiting for factory stuff? Really don't want to pay $50 a box after shipping.
All loads using Lapua Brass

Projectiles:
123GR SMK
123GR ELD-M

Powders:
IMR4064
AR-COMP
VARGET
CFE223
SW Precision

[mdram]

i would load 50 rounds
5 each, 10 charges to max. shoot them as break in, and look for pressure signs
take home, clean it.
then do an ocw around the best looking group.

but im a noob, and i think barrel break in is a myth

[Jorge0272]

Well, I also don't believe in that break in myth. I usually shoot a box or two to sight in and get a base before starting reload workup. Not that factory ammo is better.
I never work up to max. Usually stay about .4-6 below max. I do know 27.9 gr of AR-COMP was the better load for the previous barrel.

[VASCAR2]

My go to load is 123 grain Nosler CC, 123 grain SMK or 123 grain AMAX/ELD-M with 31.0 grains CFE223 with CCI 450 primers in either Lapua or Hornady brass. I got very similar results to factory Hornady 123 grain AMAX ammo out my 6.5 Grendel AR-15’s. I shoot a good bit of CFE223 as it was locally available at a reasonable price a few years ago. I never really got the velocity out of Varget in the 6.5 Grendel but good accuracy. I have AR Comp but haven’t tested it. I don’t remember IMR-4064 being used in the 6.5 Grendel, might be to slow.

[Kosh65]

Although I have never used 4064 in the Grendel………it is a tad faster than Varget and definitely faster than CFE or LVR. I don’t believe that it would work well with the Grendels case capacity.

[Jorge0272]

I do not use 4064 for the Grendel. Thats for my 6.5 Creedmoor.
All i have used for the Grendel is AR-Comp, Varget and CFE223. Mainly AR-Comp.

[mdram]

My go to load is 123 grain Nosler CC, 123 grain SMK or 123 grain AMAX/ELD-M with 31.0 grains CFE223 with CCI 450 primers in either Lapua or Hornady brass. I got very similar results to factory Hornady 123 grain AMAX ammo out my 6.5 Grendel AR-15’s. I shoot a good bit of CFE223 as it was locally available at a reasonable price a few years ago. I never really got the velocity out of Varget in the 6.5 Grendel but good accuracy. I have AR Comp but haven’t tested it. I don’t remember IMR-4064 being used in the 6.5 Grendel, might be to slow.

whats your velocity with the cfe? ive been sticking to arcomp and 8208

[Zeneffect]

I has a little data.

I've chrono hornafy black and cfe with 123gr eldm
Black



Cfe223


22" criterion barrel so may be apples and potatoes. Groups were roughly 1moa, not great but not bad either.

[Zeneffect]

I have se 120gr eldm and lvr chrono data also. I prefer lvr to cfe so far by a long shot.

Barrel break in is not myth. I'm currently seeing it in action on a .224 valkyrie with BA barrel, the more it shoots the tighter its getting. I'll be using lapped barrels moving forward to avoid this because it's a feeling of disappointment and wonder what is wrong. Just keep shooting, it will get better.

[StoneHendge]

Since the OP was about breaking in, I haven't bought factory ammo in years. To "conserve" I typically bump the shoulder of of 5 cases down to minimum SAAMI spec and load up 5 of the cheapest bullets I have in a caliber (or pulls or bullets I don't have a current use for) with a just above minimum charge of powder that will work in the caliber and that I am looking to use up. The 5 serve as function test and give me the headspace for moving forward. I give the barrel a good scrubbing and then load up 50 for the next session - again - mild loads with powder and bullets I might not otherwise use. If I'm able to get relatively close to zero from the first 5, I'll shoot steel. Another good scrubbing afterwards and then it's off to load development.

[tdbru]

Jorge0272,
i've had great luck with barrel break in of "production" barrels in terms of making them much easier to clean. I am not good enough to tell if accuracy improved. but my regimen of shoot one and clean out the copper and repeat for the 1st 10 shots has really helped make production barrels a lot easier (quicker) to clean out, particularly copper deposits, than the production barrels where i just started shooting them for groups and game. on lapped cut rifle barrels by brux or kreiger, you likely don't need to do break in. those barrels are already smooth and ready to go. but barrel break in has help on my production barrels (factory Rem, Ruger, Winchester, etc) with respect to being able to clean out the copper quickly and easily as compared to production barrels where i didn't do a break in.
-tdbru

[LR1955]

Hi guys,
I am sure you are all aware, there is an ammo shortage.
Built up a new 6.5 Grendel. Previous barrel was the 18" group buy. Got terrible accuracy. Well not terrible, but not even close to what I wanted. (1.5" - 2.5" MOA)
Went ahead and got an Odin 20" DMR barrel with adjustable gas block.
Issue is, I have no factory ammo to get a base with. I reload and can reload whatever, but I have no idea what to expect since I have no factory stuff to run through it first.
What should I do? Just go ahead and do a ladder test?
Keep waiting for factory stuff? Really don't want to pay $50 a box after shipping.
All loads using Lapua Brass

Projectiles:
123GR SMK
123GR ELD-M

Powders:
IMR4064
AR-COMP
VARGET
CFE223
SW Precision

This is a quick one.

DMR uses Bartlein barrels.

Go to the FAQ for Bartlein barrels and you will see that they finish lap their barrels.

There is absolutely no need for you to 'break in' one of their barrels. Breaking in barrels normally means you basically fire lap them to do what the barrel maker should have done -- finish lap the barrel.

Nope -- no need to break in one of these barrels.

If you want to go through this process -- read what SH advises because at least you will end up with some brass that you can measure to set your sizing die. And note he uses bullets that are useless to him for any other purpose.

LR55

[Dt219]

Did I miss something, Odin DMR barrels I thought was just a barrel profile ??

[VASCAR2]

I obtained these results on a 70 degree day a few years ago using a Magnettospeed Chronograph five shot string. I didn’t chronograph the 12” ELD-M but added it to my list for comparison.


123 grain A-Max Hornady

12” 2265 (123 grain ELD-M)

16" 2419

18" 2464

20" 2505

24" 2568

Hand Load 123 Grain Nosler CC, 31.0 grains CFE223, CCI 450

16" 2449

18" 2471

20" 2526

24" 2619

[LR1955]

Did I miss something, Odin DMR barrels I thought was just a barrel profile ??

My mistake!

I thought he was talking about DMR LLC -- who uses Barltein barrels that are finish lapped.

I believe Odin uses button rifled barrels which means about the same thing. No chatter from cut rifling that needs smoothing.

So, I still don't think anyone needs to spend another hundred dollars going through the incessant shoot and clean routine that is questionable to begin with.

Since Jorge has AR Comp and CFE-223 I would look up what guys here are using with the 123 bullets he has and use that load. Go out and shoot it and clean as normal.

Or -- JB the barrel then shoot it and JB after cleaning for a couple of times.

LR-55

[StoneHendge]

Odin barrels are hand lapped, so they start out pretty smooth.

[Mesa1978]

i have done break in and I have not done break in on barrels from the same manufacturer, rack and expensive, it really doesn't seem to make much difference in ease of cleaning or accuracy.