Beginner guide to reloading?

[Disciple]

Please recommend a guide to reloading for the beginner, and if possible provide a master list of all the equipment that would be needed. I wish to determine if this is "for me" or not.

[mdram]

this my standard response as someone just getting into it
1. buy 1, 2 or more manuals. i bough the lyman and the lee, another came with my press, i think its speer.
2. read the front sections at least twice.
3. use that info to make a list of things.

check out gavintoob on youtube and johnnys reloading bench
johnny actually has a series on reloading for the grendel

note: materials to reload are in short supply at the moment. especially primers

[Popeye212]

What mdram said Brownells also has a series on reloading

[RobUrban]

Johnny's reloading Bench has a series titled a beginners guide to reloading. Talks about equipment etc.

[kmon]

See this question a lot on here and other places. Several years ago I listed out most of what will be needed and what it is used for on another site. This is the post I started it with

Some information for those new to reloading or thinking about getting into reloading. While not complete it is a good start on our ideas of what is needed and some of our thoughts. this list is for Metallic cartridge reloading (Rifle/Pistol)

Get at least 2 reloading manuals, Lee or lyman are both good for explaining reloading. I would say pick either of them and one from your favorite bullet manufacture. ABCs of reloading is another good book

Study the manuals on how to and what you will be doing. As far as data goes those with what is available online from various component manufactures should be enough to keep you out of trouble and finding good load information. If not post up questions when you have them.

If you can find a mentor that can show you the ropes for setup and loading even better. If not there are other sources. Lee, Sinclar, and others have some very good videos online showing the reloading process. If you are within driving distance of Cabelas in Fort Worth the Sunday reloading classes have been highly recommended.

As far as equipment there are many choices. You can get by with the cheapest equipment and darned little of it, but generally speaking you'll get what you pay for. With that in mind, if you're a hunter or plinker interested in reloading for hunting or plinking are *the focus* for you, buy the most economical equipment you think will suit you. If you think you might want to play around and experiment in search for the most accurate load you can build, spend more. There are many different perspectives on reloading, and each aspiring reloader's purposes and objectives justify an infinite number of approaches to the game and how much money should be invested in equipment.


Press - for someone starting out Single stage press is the way to go. The presses is where you will find more disagreements than any other equipment on which is best. Lets just say some are better than others but all the presses on the market today can be used to reload some great ammo. Pick one you like and can afford, because if you take care of it the press will probably outlast you. Much like a good rifle if you wear a press out reloading then you will have had a lot of good times and spent a lot of time with it.

Dies - all the manufactures make some great ones. Any case with a shoulder or taper will have to use steel dies with lubricant. Straight wall pistol cases can be sized with carbide dies. Carbide eliminates the need to lubricate cases and really speeds up the job of processing brass.

Full Length sizing dies you will want a set for each caliber you plan to reload for. Always use a FL resizing die for automatic, pump or leveraction rifles, and if reloading brass shot in a different firearm.

Neck sizing dies are great for accuracy loads and extend case life by working the brass less than a FL resizing die. the Collete type dies for neck sizing are very good and work the brass even less.

Bullet seating dies are used to seat the bullet and many have the ability to crimp or not depending on how you setup the die.

Crimp- Taper vs Roll

You will hear these terms thrown around, but it's important to understand the difference. A roll crimp is just what it sounds like- the mouth of the case is rolled into a crimping groove or cannelure in the projectile. It offers a very stable crimp but it works the mouth of your brass and can lead to splitting.

A taper crimp, on the other hand, squeezes the mouth of the case into the projectile evenly. It doesn't work the brass nearly as much and is the only crimp method that will work in most auto pistol calibers, since they headspace off the case mouth.

Crimping is necessary to keep the bullet from moving in the case during recoil.

factory crimp dies are great for crimping and easy to use.

CASE HOLDER - You will need one for your press to hold the shell in the press. If you use Lee dies the correct shell holder is included.

Case trimmers - are another necessary tool, as cartridges are fired and re-sized the brass will eventually stretch causing it to be too long which is not good as this can cause excessive pressures, cambering issues or both. Cases need to be trimmed to spec and if you are crimping the loads having them all the same length makes that a lot simpler.

When getting started, the Lee trimmer system works well and is inexpensive. It takes a little bit of time and elbow grease, but generally only trim every 3rd-4th loading.

PRIMING EQUIPMENT = the hand held ones are simple to use and do a great job. The Lee and RCBS versions are great.

POWDER SCALES - there are many good ones. Digital scales are very popular these days and a good one can speed up the loading process. The balance beam scale is still a good option, Learn how to use your scale and make sure it is calibrated before trusting it for weighing powder charges. Also air flow can make a difference so measuring powder is best done away from fans and AC vents.

When using a powder drop weigh every 4th or 5th charge. If you are loading for precision, you can drop your charge 1/2 grain light and finish it out with your powder tickler in the scale.

CALIPERS - either digital or dial are an necessity for measuring case length and loaded cartridge length. We are talking hundredths or even thousand of an inch to be accurate and safe.

POWDER FUNNEL - Have one. Have two. Have five. You can never have too many funnels!

LOADING BLOCKS - you will want these to hold your cases keeping things organized while you work.

CASE LUBE - the spray ones are good and easy to use but are only one of several options. Cases stuck in reloading dies are a pain to remove.

CASE PREP - you will need at least a camafer/reamer tool for cleaning up cases.

TUMBLER - for cleaning up the brass, another good route for that can be found in the hints sticky thread.

Bench Accessories-

Keep it clean and organized! A cluttered bench is a recipe for disaster! I keep two paper trays on my bench for processing brass, one for before, one for after. This cuts down on the confusion. A good set of blocks is a must, and it allows you to visually check your powder charges. When setting up your bench, be sure to leave plenty of room on the "weak" side of your press. This will give you a place to set your brass bins and ammo trays.

At some point you will most likely acquire other tools of the craft. Bullet pullers....


Mostly have fun and above all be safe. Do not exceed max published loads.

The list is not complete but in reality with that you can get started, at some point soon I will be editing that to include more and new common tools that I did not list. Heck I started with a Lee Loader for the 30-30 and loaded MOA ammo with that little kit.

[LR1955]

Please recommend a guide to reloading for the beginner, and if possible provide a master list of all the equipment that would be needed. I wish to determine if this is "for me" or not.

I recommend you run some searches in the Reloading forum because you are not the first one to ask about a beginners guide sort of thing.

There is no 'beginners' guide to reloading. What you do to load your first round of ammo is the same thing you will do for all ammunition you reload during your reloading career.

I don't recommend you spend a cent on a reloading manual. Or, find one for a dollar at a flea market or used book store and read it. Don't worry how old it is. The process has not changed for over a century. Or, save your money and go to the web site of the bullet or powder company and most have a reloading guide. And reloading data.

I am sure there are guys here who can direct you to very good videos of guys reloading ammo. Look at a number of them and note the steps that are all the same. They will be the same for you too.

When you are ready to buy gear, search the Reloading forum again because the topic of what gear to get and what to avoid has been covered numerous times. The latest one is only a month or two old.

LR55

[LR1955]

I did a search on the internet using "Reloading Metallic Rifle Cartridges". I weeded through about fifteen guides and choose the top two for the process and the bottom for what not to do.

RCBS has a good beginners guide. https://www.rcbs.com/rcbs-how-to-reload/...ading.html

Here is another one that is more in depth than the RCBS one above. http://www.uniquetek.com/store/696296/up..._Guide.pdf

This one is a decent on on common mistakes made by reloaders. https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/...akes/99612

My advice is not to get OCD about reloading. Follow the guides and use safe loads and you will be fine.

LR55

[Rosecrans1]

I agree with what the others have stated above. Buy a kit if you decide it's for you. But make sure you buy a single stage press kit. The best kit out there IMHO is the Rockchucker Supreme by RCBS. Please do not start with a LEE press or kit. Their quality has suffered lately and you don't want problems with a press or a die when you are just starting out as it makes it very difficult to figure out problems.
However, with all the advice being given, I would read and watch and learn as much as you can stand but don't do anything regarding a purchase. Even a kit purchase, until supplies come back. Right now, it is very difficult to find the components needed to reload if you don't have anything to start out with.
Your wait may last well into Spring of next year. This gives you time to ponder your purchase or decision to join the reloaders circle. It's a very fine and rewarding hobby but right now is not the time to be a buyer!

[A5BLASTER]

Learning how to reload/handload will make you a millionaire provided you start out as a billionaire lmao.

Best advice I can give is, dive in head first, dont buy the cheaper more entry level parts/tools, dont buy parts/tools with the mindset of I can upgrade later or what if I dont like it. Step up buy the better parts/tools, if you dont like it you have a better chance of making your money back on resale and if you stay with it you won't have to spend more money to upgrade.

[mdram]

fyi: rcbs is having a rebate sale atm. spend 400, get 100 back.
check the terms for things that are not included
https://promotions.vistaoutdoor.com/EN/US/Home/Brand/6

[burnsy13]

Learning how to reload/handload will make you a millionaire provided you start out as a billionaire lmao.

Best advice I can give is, dive in head first, dont buy the cheaper more entry level parts/tools, dont buy parts/tools with the mindset of I can upgrade later or what if I dont like it. Step up buy the better parts/tools, if you dont like it you have a better chance of making your money back on resale and if you stay with it you won't have to spend more money to upgrade.

This is extremely sound advice.

If you cheap out with equipment early, you WILL spend more when you realize how much better the more expensive stuff is. Seriously, if you don't like it, sell it on here, people are always looking.

[Disciple]

Thanks everyone.