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So... Just found the site. Help me find the most affordable Upper
#1
Hello, great little site here. I am really really wanting to build a Grendel. I have an AR so I just need an upper. 2 questions.

1) Where the #e77 do I buy an affordable upper? I always start low and then build high, so I know that it wont be the nicest around. I am an old man and cant see that well and has a shaky hand anyhow, so the most basic of uppers would out shoot me. I was hoping for a 18" long upper.

2) Can I make my own brass out of old X39 brass?

Thanks folks, hopefully soon I will be able to show you all the deer I kill with this badboy.
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#2
Do you have the tools to assemble your upper? Basically, you can choose to build or buy. If you have half a brain and want to absorb the costs associated with assembling, trouble-shooting, and quality-controlling your own, you build.

If you want to allocate those costs to a reputable manufacturer, then you buy a complete upper and drive-on.

If you don't need a match-grade, cut-rifled stainless barrel that will shoot 1/2" groups, you can get an 18" fluted stainless Grendel pipe with matching bolt for $320 from Alexander Arms:

http://www.alexanderarms.com/index.php/products.html

Barrel/bolt combo $320
Get an upper $70-$90
A free-float handguard $60
Gas block $25
Gas tube $12
Muzzle device $15 http://www.alexanderarms.com/index.php/products.html
Heavy Buffer, if you don't have one and if you don' have a rifle-length buffer/spring/stock

With an armorer's wrench and receiver jaws, you can easily install your barrel, gas block, A2 compensator, and handguard. You might want some loc-tite for the gas block once the gas circuit is tested.

Then take your Grendel bolt, drop it into your AR15 carrier, and use your existing charge handle. If you want a complete upper without the inconvenience of raping your 5.56 upper constantly, you can purchase those parts as well, but I listed the most economical route first, provided you assume the QC, assembly, and trouble-shooting yourself.

Yes, you can form Grendel out of x39 brass, but brass is so plentiful, that the time might not be worth it to you, and be advised that you'll be limited to different powder volume and pressures with the x39 brass, so much of the reloading data shared by the majority of others will not be compatible with x39 brass, as most of it so far has exhibited less case capacity.
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#3
I am really considering the option of putting one together myself. I am not terribly mechanically inclined but I have a buddy who is pretty good at it and I am sure I could talk him into it. If I was to put it together myself, how much of a difference in accuracy would I see when opposed to buying a put together upper on my own? I am slightly hamstrung by the fact that the local range only has a 200 yard max. Would the difference show there? Thanks, jr
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#4
jdogg: Where are you located?

My reason for asking is if you were in the area of someone else who has done it before they might be willing to work you through it and they would probably have the right tools.
I know if anyone was in my area I wouldn't mind helping them.
Just a thought and good luck either way.

Lee
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#5
I be in Oregon. I am fairly certain of my friends smithing skills, so I am pretty sure that we could do it. I am looking at barrels now, looks like you have talked me into it. I will keep checking the site for tips. Thanks, jody
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#6
I started about 18 months ago, a complete newbi, and built 6 complete rifles.

You will need at least two special tools, not all that expensive. First an armours wrench for the barrel nut and a receiver block(jaws) to surround the receiver while you are tightening and aliging the barrel nut, which is the only critical and tricky part of the procedure. A torque wrench is recommended. Everything else can be done with common shop tools, punches, hammer, screwdriver or an allen wrench.

Main thing is to take your time, and be sure to properly grease the barrel nut before fitting the barrel nut. One of the grooves must match up perfectly with the hole in the upper receiver so the gas tube can pass through without binding. The nut must be torqued in a certain range.
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#7
So what if a person would want, me in particular, to go the extra mile and build a really nice upper. What do you think? How much more would that cost? What should I look for, any great companies?
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#8
loki can do u a basic for arond 620 and a real nice for around 1150 just to give u a compairison
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#9
First thing, get yourself a C&R (curio and relics) license. Basically a federal license for collectors. Some companies, especially of interest here Brownells and Midway, and others offer significnat discounts to C&R holders. License is $30 for 3 years so you can with a 10% discount easily recover the cost with one purchase.

Determine what you want and shop for parts.
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#10
Just be advised that a C&R is not for purchasing regular firearms. This is from the ATF's website:

"Q: Does a collector’s license afford any privileges to the licensee with respect to acquiring or disposing of firearms other than curios or relics in interstate or foreign commerce?

No. A licensed collector has the same status under the Gun Control Act (GCA) as a nonlicensee except for transactions in curio or relic firearms."
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#11
I should have mentioned that, but you can purchase firearms that are classed C&R, basically most things over 50 years old, plus as I mentioned parts other than the serial numbered part that the ATF defines as the "firearm", which in the case of an AR-15 is the lower receiver forgeing. All the internal parts can be purchased by anyone on line, over the phone, by mail, no paperwork required. The only exception as I understand would be certain parts for full auto arms
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