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+--- Thread: Ready to go to the paint shop? (/showthread.php?tid=9686)
Ready to go to the paint shop? - Jackem - 08-09-2015
Greetings to the Horde,
At first I planned to try painting it myself, then I called the local Cerakote applicator and was quoted 225 for an AR in one color, which is probably cheaper than tooling up to do a proper job for me at least.
If I get the barrel and parts to its left in the picture painted, and keep the parts to the right as they are, what part am I going to wish I'd gotten painted later?
Thinking about going with burnt bronze but would like to make a shade darker than standard, anyone have experience doing that?
Any and all advise about the painting process appreciated!
Jack
Ready to go to the paint shop? - am4966 - 08-09-2015
Possibly the end plate, castle nut and buffer tube. But that all depends on if your doing bronze and black or all bronze. The applicator can adjust color.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - Jackem - 08-09-2015
I would like the buffer tube and castle nut painted, but wonder if the paint will hold up tightened the nut and sliding the stock? On a bolt gun the Cerakote has worn off the bolt and the magazine is the reason I ask.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - dmsims21 - 08-09-2015
Since you aren't going to paint the buffer tube, I think it will be fine to not paint the castle nut and end plate. They will blend in with the black tube.
You may consider painting the gas block, though it will be hidden.
I would be afraid that the shiny gas tube would stick out. May want to get a black one or have it painted.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - rabiddawg - 08-09-2015
Since you asked, i do not like the looks of guns that have been painted and the handgrip and stock have not. It just ruins the whole look.
That said, i am not sure what the solution would be. I have seen my akzo nobel rep paint a shower curtain and a nerf football to demonstrate their flex additive. Plastic and rubber can be painted, dont know why someone doesnt do it.
However, we are talking about a high wear area and there is no doubt that anything you coat it with is gonna wear off eventually.
I guess its a good thing i like black.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - rickOshay - 08-09-2015
I went this route:
Ready to go to the paint shop? - Jackem - 08-09-2015
AM. Hope he can adjust the color with a fair measure of predictability
Dm Thanks for suggesting a black gas tube, I think that's my new plan
Rabid Think "blackened" bronze with black accents.....
Rick Nice! Hope mine looks as good when it's done. It's seeing rifles like yours that cost me money...Thanks(?)
Ready to go to the paint shop? - LRRPF52 - 08-11-2015
The small parts that articulate against other metal parts should be done with Cerakote Microslick, unless it's just the outside of them that will be done. Cerakote galls against metal surfaces when there is high wear.
Anything steel that will be exposed to the elements should probably be coated if you plan to spend time in the outdoors with it, including rain.
The things that start to rust first are:
Steel Scope ring and base screws
Steel Handguard screws
Ejection port cover, rod
Steel Receiver end plate
Steel End plate lock ring
Forward Assist Button
Selector
Mag catch
TD pin
Pivot Pin
Ready to go to the paint shop? - montana - 08-11-2015
rickOshay Wrote:I went this route:
Nice looking rifle, I like the off set colors on the stock, barrel and muzzle comp.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - Jackem - 08-11-2015
David, the Cerakote man in GJ, provided a sample of burnt bronze and one mixed 7 - 3 parts burnt bronze to black.
Pics are in direct sunlight and shade. To the eye the chip with added black looks darker than in the image. Both those chips blend in with the landscape of Western Colorado, but the darker one does it better I think.
Thanks to all that took the time to opine...More pics in a week or so, but without the finger
Jack
Ready to go to the paint shop? - rabiddawg - 08-11-2015
montana Wrote:Nice looking rifle, I like the off set colors on the stock, barrel and muzzle comp.
Me too. Just that little bit on the stock keeps it from looking "not finished". Thats what a lot of painted guns are missing.
Well done Rick!
Ready to go to the paint shop? - Jackem - 08-25-2015
Hello Gents,
My first build is an ongoing learning learning experience, and investment....
The scope is destined to go on another rifle, and I got a deal on the mount but it's too high so it wasn't the deal I thought it was. But I do like the way the 7-3 burnt bronze to black turned out.
Here's shade, direct sun, and interior light
Ready to go to the paint shop? - LRRPF52 - 08-26-2015
Sweet. Looks good for Colorado/West. What loads do you plan on starting with?
Hornady factory ammo is a great start as a baseline.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - rickOshay - 08-26-2015
Turned out great !
Ready to go to the paint shop? - montana - 08-26-2015
I love burnt bronze, it turned out great. Let us know how it shoots.
Ready to go to the paint shop? - Jackem - 08-27-2015
Appreciate the favorable comments about the color, I'm pleased with the shade, and the guy did a great job applying it.
Shooting 123 Amax to start with, hope to do load work for it later this fall when I get the scope and mount situation resolved. With elk season just over a month out, my attention and range time has shifted to the 7 RM I'm familiar with and plan to use.
Probably just my experience, but my first Grendel build didn't come in on time, or budget, so it's next year's rifle... Assuming I get it tuned up in time.