+- 6.5 Grendel Forum (https://65grendel.com)
+-- Forum: 6.5 GRENDEL DISCUSSION FORUMS (https://65grendel.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=3)
+--- Forum: 6.5 Grendel Build-It-Yourself & Custom Builds (https://65grendel.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=9)
+--- Thread: New Build help please (/showthread.php?tid=8365)
New Build help please - NCTTA - 09-26-2014
Getting ready to start a Grendel build and have no clue what parts will give best bang for buck. I've got a 20"Liberty barrel with their type 2 bolt, Ace stock and Lancer Carbon hand guard. My question is for a very accurate build what parts do I need to complete the build or do I sell off what parts I have and start fresh?
Failed to mention the purpose is primarily a deer hunting rifle.
Thanks
New Build help please - Variable - 09-26-2014
For a very accurate build?
AR Mechanical Accuracy = 90% Barrel, 10% other parts that surround it.
Parts that allow the shooter to shoot it accurately? 50% Trigger, 40% free float forend, 10% extra bits.
Most of your accuracy is in your barrel.
Since you already have a barrel and float tube, I'd get a good trigger next.
New Build help please - Dave Bob - 09-26-2014
Look, if your deer hunting what are the ranges? What are you going to hunt with, factory or hand loads? I've hunted deer for over 40 years and for up to 350 yds. if its 1.5 MOA or less your golden. If you want to shoot less than 1 MOA try what you got if it don't work, sell it and get something else.
Dave
New Build help please - NCTTA - 09-26-2014
I'm not stuck on what I have because I traded for them with a buddy and can sell them tomorrow and make a few bucks. I want a rifle that will be capable of shooting .5 MOA and I reload for all the bolt guns I have. Being new to AR builds I'm looking for advice on a parts list.
New Build help please - cory - 09-26-2014
If you want that kind of accuracy, I would sell the barrel and buy from a shop that will guarantee that accuracy. Hit up Mark at Precision Firearms. Then get a good trigger, I personally like Geissele triggers. After the get a solid billet upper.
From there you're going to have to spend a lot to see gains in accuracy.
New Build help please - usmc1371 - 09-27-2014
I have a 24" liberty bbl on a Rainer arms billed match upper. Free floating hand guard and geillese trigger. Shoots sub moa.
New Build help please - jjjefferson - 09-27-2014
That is usually the driving question what most decisions are made around. What is the "good 'nuff for me." performance vs cost ratio. You can spend a lot of $$$ chasing that last .2 MOA!
I agree with Variables breakdown. I would list it like this.
1: Shooter. (bad form defeats all.
)2: Barrel: chamber/crown/rifling/bolt
3: free float forearm
4: trigger
5: optics
6: rest of the parts that hold parts 2-5 in place. Upper receiver, Buffer tube/spring, lower receiver.
#1 has been the cause of many a debate: Cut vs Button Rifling. Length vs Muzzle Velocity. Weight vs Portabiltiy. and on and on. Some say 16" is good out to 300...some say 20" is better...others say 24" is just too damn long. Personally, I don't see an issue with 24 inch barrels...I carry a Weatherby .300 Mag for deer hunting and its 26" barrel has never been an issue.
Everything comes down to what is right for "your" specific needs. Given the history of the Liberty barrels I would say find another one. I researched the Grendel for over 2 years before I built one. Saw the mess surrounding that particular barrel and decided just to steer clear of it. I have no idea what the current status of it is...but I am not going to spend my $$$ on it to find out.
If you are just deer hunting with it...you need to be able to hit a deer's heart at 300. Thats good 'nuff and many popular mfg's barrels will deliver that performance. If you need to hit a dime at 300....now you are up there with the expensive barrels and high-end optics.
Good luck with your build and your hunt!
JJ