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+--- Thread: Removing a loctite bedded barrel (/showthread.php?tid=23149)
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Removing a loctite bedded barrel - SDW - 05-12-2021
montana Wrote:I have been working on the AR platform since the late 70's. I look at mistakes as tuition cost for learning, needless to say I have had plenty of expense along the way. That said, I learn something new all the time.Feel free to add this experience of mine, at least anecdotally, to your lexicon. "This one guy Loctited his gas block entirely onto his barrel...."
I can't recall why I chose to use the claw hammer in lieu of my ballpeen or even my plastic covered dead-blow hammer. Might have been because it's a little lighter than the ballpeen and I was trying to be precise in the angle and force of the blows. I was trying very hard not to ding up my barrel during that procedure. I was nearly successful. I could have wrapped the barrel in cardboard, like cereal box grade. But then I could not have heated the GB with a torch.
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - montana - 05-12-2021
SDW Wrote:Feel free to add this experience of mine, at least anecdotally, to your lexicon. "This one guy Loctited his gas block entirely onto his barrel...."
I can't recall why I chose to use the claw hammer in lieu of my ballpeen or even my plastic covered dead-blow hammer. Might have been because it's a little lighter than the ballpeen and I was trying to be precise in the angle and force of the blows. I was trying very hard not to ding up my barrel during that procedure. I was nearly successful. I could have wrapped the barrel in cardboard, like cereal box grade. But then I could not have heated the GB with a torch.
I use home made aluminum or brass punches.. It is easy to hide any aluminum punch residue with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/blackening-browning/aluminum-black-prod4941.aspx If the steel gets marred, I use https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/perma-blue-prod24776.aspx Brass or aluminum punches will not mar or flatten steel like steel punches will.. I use gorrila tape on my receivers when installing any roll pins etc...
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - SDW - 05-12-2021
Ah, thanks. I actually have brass punches too. Smallish ones. I use them all the time for driving in roll pins, etc. Plus some aluminum bar stock that I could have used I suppose. I'm starting to wonder if I really cared about that gas block now. LOL It leaked gas pretty bad, IMO. It was open at the front. Below are a couple of "before" pics. You can see how it was spewing black gunk all over the barrel at both ends. I know it's not supposed to be a perfectly tight seal, bug this struck me as inefficient as well as kind ugly looking. I replaced it with a BCM GB. Closed at the front.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17846[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]17847[/ATTACH]
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - SDW - 05-12-2021
Klem Wrote:I wonder whether an induction coil heater would work in getting off that block.
It was mentioned here recently in a thread on brass annealing and I have bit the bullet and bought one - it hasn't arrived yet.
You could adjust the coils to go around the gas block and heat the whole block evenly and at the same time. With a torch you'd have to go around it by bit and I wonder if parts of the block would cool as you were heating other parts. I know it is a lot of money but if you already had the device surely it would work. I also see cheaper induction coils which are just exposed circuit boards on Youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLRgDZeYQ-M
That is a really neat device. I like this idea for annealing better than putting the cases on a little turntable with a gas flame running. And it comes with coils of larger diameters looks like. It could be used then for heating receiver front for installing/removing tight barrels too I'll bet. You would just have to make sure the coil can be removed afterward. Means no GI type triangle sight bases.
And Zeneffect, the OP, I had never heard of that kind of Goof Off. Had to look it up. Thanks for the tip!
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - montana - 05-12-2021
From what I understand the old Goof Off was mostly xylene and the newer Goof Off is mostly acetone, which is what I soak my parts in..
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - montana - 05-13-2021
SDW Wrote:Ah, thanks. I actually have brass punches too. Smallish ones. I use them all the time for driving in roll pins, etc. Plus some aluminum bar stock that I could have used I suppose. I'm starting to wonder if I really cared about that gas block now. LOL It leaked gas pretty bad, IMO. It was open at the front. Below are a couple of "before" pics. You can see how it was spewing black gunk all over the barrel at both ends. I know it's not supposed to be a perfectly tight seal, bug this struck me as inefficient as well as kind ugly looking. I replaced it with a BCM GB. Closed at the front.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17846[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]17847[/ATTACH]
That gas block looks terrible. The gas tube port side should be around .180 .181 to .182 in size, if memory serves. The gas tube end should be .180 as best, .177 as fair and .176 as poor in size. BCM gas blocks have worked well for my builds when an adjustable was not wanted.. The gas block journal opening and barrel journal size difference is also important for gas seal. Gas leakage from the gas block, gas tube, gas key, bolt carrier three chambers, under powered ammunition, and wrong buffer system can create problems with a correct sized gas port..Throw in an incorrect cut chamber, throat, under or over sized barrel port, tolerances at opposite ends with the receivers, fire control group, barrel extension, weak extractor, weak or clogged ejector, over strong extractor, clocked barrel, clocked gas block, poorly manufactured buffer tube, incorrect bolt carrier length, etc and it can be even more fun finding the problem with a malfunctioning AR..
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - SDW - 05-13-2021
Yes that does look pretty bad, doesn't it. I'm glad you agree. I never fired it at night. I wonder if I'd have seen a flame/flash shooting out the front and back.
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - Zeneffect - 05-14-2021
That induction coil kit comes with straight wire as well to wrap your own coil. It's nothing fancy, just some copper wire and high temp insulator. I did my own coils wrapping around a deep socket. 5/16th 1/2 drive, 3 full coils, 2.68 seconds for horny brass.
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - Zeneffect - 05-14-2021
That induction coil kit comes with straight wire as well to wrap your own coil. It's nothing fancy, just some copper wire and high temp insulator. I did my own coils wrapping around a deep socket.
My can of goof off says xylene btw and is a few years old.
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - Bretandry - 06-03-2021
I loosen the barrel nut a couple threads then put the whole works barrel nut down and supported in the arbor press. Doing it this way you are still pressing against the mostly engaged threads till it pops loose. A small arbor press is a very very handy item to have in your build room.
Removing a loctite bedded barrel - A5BLASTER - 06-03-2021
Bretandry Wrote:I loosen the barrel nut a couple threads then put the whole works barrel nut down and supported in the arbor press. Doing it this way you are still pressing against the mostly engaged threads till it pops loose. A small arbor press is a very very handy item to have in your build room.
Sound alike a good way too rip off a thread.
Seriously guys. Its locktite, just unscrew the barrel nut and tap the barrel out with a peice of wood rod or mop handle and a rubber mallet. It's not like its welded in there.