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+--- Thread: Annealing question (/showthread.php?tid=20725)
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Annealing question - Harpoon1 - 03-04-2020
Kswhitetails & Centerfire
Interesting, I wouldnt have guessed that its even obvious at 100 yards.
Thanks
Annealing question - FLshooter - 03-04-2020
tdbru,I am also concerned that with 6.5 Grendel and the standard wheels,the flame may damage the wheels. When I start a annealing 6.5 Grendel ,I will more than likely switch to the 300 blackout wheels.
By the way have you tried switching wheels on the Annealeez gen 2 yet. It looks like it could be a challenge. And all I could find on YouTube are instructions for the Annealeez gen 1
Annealing question - Popeye212 - 03-04-2020
"The higher the annealing temperature, the shorter the time required to anneal. The grain structure of the brass begins to change - indicating the start of annealing - at just under 500 degrees Fahrenheit. At 600 degrees F, brass will anneal in one hour. At 800 degrees F, brass will take only a few seconds to anneal."
Annealing question - Kswhitetails - 03-05-2020
So, without realizing it, I got my machine with the small wheels. I would have sworn that I got the standards, but low and behold, I did indeed place the order with the small wheels on the machine, and just ordered the large wheels. I've been thinking the whole time that the CM cases look a little long for the wheels, but they've been working so far. Heh... no, I can't imagine I'd want the wheels wider than they are for the Grendel case.
Annealing question - s3silver - 03-10-2020
Mark611 Wrote:I just annealed 100 pieces of new Hornady brass, I used a propane torch and a 7/16's socket to hold the brass from being to hot on my fingers, I used 5 seconds of time turning the brass on the flame...
This is what I do also when I feel like annealing.
Annealing question - MegaHurtz - 03-10-2020
Harpoon1 Wrote:Annealing for the Grendel, man, youve got too much time on your hands!* MegaHurtz (currently an AR chassis owner, but will go proper bolt at some point) is still learning. The value of annealing when jumping to the lands is acknowledged, I perceive. Accordingly, I delved into it and built my own. In hindsight, I could have just bought an Annealeze - it would have saved me some time as cost ended up being nearly the same. But mine is wurkin good, so meh. I did have some fun spending a few days throwing it together, and learned a thing or three.... Anyway, if your jumping them ...
So, given the value of annealing in a non-jammed context, I just check with my bbl OEM (Satern/Liberty) and they indicate that the throat is a .078 match throat. I presume that means that there is a designed jump of nearly 80 thousandths before the projectile engages the lands. Does this pass the sniff test?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15664[/ATTACH]
Also, I note that the chamber's throat presents to have a nicely-ramped transition to the lands/grooves:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15665[/ATTACH] (higher-res link)
I had requested the chamber reamer drawing, but they declined (IP concerns, I'm guessing (even though I offered to be bound by an NDA)). So, baring my making a cast of the chamber, I suspect that I am left to my own druthers to ascertain various specifics about it.
Another perceived value of having vitals specific to my chamber is the use of QuickLOAD to identify potential projectile/power combos to start building loads from:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15666[/ATTACH] (higher-res link)
The whole jamming the round against the lands, vs. having some free bore is moot in an AR-context I've found, given the cartridge OAL limitation imputed by the magazine. Manual feeding via ejection port could be a workaround, but meh...
And yes, I acknowledge that QL is cautioned against by some of the salty-dawgs in the horde, given prior perceptions of substantive inaccuracy in a Grendel context. I liken my intended use of QL to aid in helping to find a potential starting point, and as another element in sanity checking things, as I progress through the learning curve.
(ugh, I drift OT. sorry.)
Anyways, I perceive that annealing (and otherwise treating the neck (trimming, thickness turning, concentricity, etc.)) are all steps that may serve to improve accuracy, with admittedly perceived diminishing returns. But, for those of us who may enjoy these aspects of reloading as much as spending time on the firing line, I say go for it, as long as one is judicious in learning about the various aspects.
-MHz
Annealing question - tdbru - 03-12-2020
FLShooter,
switching wheels on the annealeez is not a big problem. but good to have both a socket (deep socket) and a combo wrench so you can get on both ends of the one bolt. you do not need to gorilla cinch the wheels down, as they don't have much drag load on them at all. set the bottom notch at 12:00 and the top one about 4PM. play with that little paddle thing that varies the space between the two wheels for the case to sit. if it's not right for the case they can fall through and off the bottom wheel. run about two dozen through without flame to make sure that the feeding is working properly before you setup to anneal.
-tdbru
Annealing question - FLshooter - 03-12-2020
tdbru Wrote:FLShooter,The gen 2 machine is a little bit different. It doesnt have a nut holding the wheel on in the front.
switching wheels on the annealeez is not a big problem. but good to have both a socket (deep socket) and a combo wrench so you can get on both ends of the one bolt. you do not need to gorilla cinch the wheels down, as they don't have much drag load on them at all. set the bottom notch at 12:00 and the top one about 4PM. play with that little paddle thing that varies the space between the two wheels for the case to sit. if it's not right for the case they can fall through and off the bottom wheel. run about two dozen through without flame to make sure that the feeding is working properly before you setup to anneal.
-tdbru