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I just noticed that my gas block set screws are touching my hand guard. It is a YH low profile clamp on gas block. The hand guard I am using is the Midwest Industries Gen 2. It looks like it is barley touching one of the set screws. Would it be ok to file off the edge of the set screw or should I try something different?
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I had this issue with the MI SS Gen 2 using a clamp-on low-profile VLTOR gas block, so I went to a YHM low-profile set-screw gas block instead. The clamp-ons are too big for the narrow tube of the Mi Gen 2.
Is your barrel dimpled for a set-screw gas block? -
I also have a YH set screw gas block that I can use. Not sure if my barrel is dimpled or not, it is from AA.Comment
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Ok, I just pulled it apart and I don't see a dimple in the barrel. Does it have to have that to use a set screw gas block?Comment
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It doesn't have to, especially for a gun that isn't being run on high-volume, like a 3-gun blaster, unless that's what you need.
You can either dimple it, or use red loc-tite when fastening the gas block to the barrel. You should be using red loc-tite for the set screws on a set-screw gas block anyway.
What I do, and it's a pain, is check for fit of the block to the barrel and journal, then check for a gas circuit with air. The gas block then is pulled off, and loc-tited if there isn't a dimple. On my 16" AA Grendel, I use a clamp-on adjustable gas block, and have never had issues with it. My gun simply runs. It has an APEX rifle-length handguard that fits easily over my gas block, however.
For your case, you probably need loc-tite, which should not be introduced into the gas port. Degrease the snot out of your barrel and gas block, the screws, and proceed, or have a competent smith who knows AR's perform the work for you.Comment
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