VLTOR MUR-1 stripped upper no forward assist.

[LongRanger]

The VLTOR Mur-1 stripped upper without the forward assist at $165 shipped. Very good quality. Built two uppers with these and paid a quite a bit more for them than this earlier in the year. This is a very stiff upper that would work well for 6.5 Grendel. There were only four left at this place after I bought another one for the 16 Lilja barrel when it arrives.

http://tradingplacepawn.com/vltor-mur-1s-modular-upper-receiver-w-o-bolt-assist.html

[Tedward]

The VLTOR Mur-1 stripped upper without the forward assist at $165 shipped. Very good quality. Built two uppers with these and paid a quite a bit more for them than this earlier in the year. This is a very stiff upper that would work well for 6.5 Grendel. There were only four left at this place after I bought another one for the 16 Lilja barrel when it arrives.

http://tradingplacepawn.com/vltor-mu...lt-assist.html

One thing I don't get on these uppers is the removable side or what is it? The brass deflector has what looks like a piece of metal filling the forward assist hole. Is that what it is? Is it like that so the forward assit or no foraward assit can be put in there so only one upper needs manufactured??

[LRRPF52]

It's a Modular Upper Receiver that allows configuration with and without the forward assist and brass deflector.

[dmsims21]

The forward assist/ deflector, or just deflector can be removed by knocking out a roll pin. I have the version with the forward assist. I mainly like the looks of it better. the MUR forward assist is moved forward a bit, so it isn't under the charging handle.

[JohnOD]

MY 458SOCOM was built on a MUR-1A upper. For anyone considering one keep in mind the upper won't fit in a standard clamshell upper receiver vice block.

[seatleroadwr]

What sort of a fixture do you use to hold the VLTOR receiver when you are installing the barrel? My receiver fixture does not fit the VLTOR receiver well.

[Klem]

I sometimes use clamshells for cleaning or gas block assembly, but they don't get used much.

For anything where torque is needed I recommend using a barrel vise;

http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-parts-tools-accessories/firearm-tools/barrel-vises/wrenches/davidson-barrel-vise-prod36757.aspx

[Tedward]

I made a set of these out of Oak and thought I saved the day then saw JP Rifles makes them. They sell a set for $95 (on sale at Midway for $75) and these guys have the same thing. Mine cost .50 cents. No matter what upper you have that is full picatinny, no handle, it works great. http://www.squirreldaddy.com/AR15-Pr...s-p/20-124.htm

I just took the oak board and mittered a 1/2" slot down the center of a 6" long piece of scrap oak so it goes from the front pivot pin to the rear take down pin. Then took another piece and cut a 7/8" grove for the picatinny top. I have held many of uppers in the vise to install barrels with barrel nuts and no movement or marring. I guess the one Klem posted is to hold the barrel but I haven't needed that. This block holds it rigid enough for installing the gas blocks and my comps. I never torque it so much it will twist the barrel as I've read people saying you might. So go ahead and ding me for saying that now and explain why what Klem posted is needed... I just haven't seen the need.

[Klem]

...and explain why what Klem posted is needed... I just haven't seen the need.

I suspect you already know the answer to that...Thick steel vs. thin aluminium.

Plus you can use a barrel vise with all your other guns, not just an AR.