Removing a loctite bedded barrel

[SDW]

Peice of mop handle and a rubber mallet. Couple of taps and the barrel comes right out.

Or just use a piece of dowel, available at any HW store in 36" sticks Rather than cut up a mop handle. I keep a couple pieces of 1" dowel for just this sort of job.

I use green loctite"620" between the barrel and gas block block journal for proper seal.... Using a torch to break down any loctite thread lock adhesive is a very simple process...

Not so simple sometimes. I once used a green "penetrating" version of LT (labeled as a Permatex product) under a gas block. This type of green LT is designed for post-installation thread treatments, etc. Flows like water, wicks into any void. Anyway, I applied it under a Troy low-pro gas block, a set screw type, on a GMR stainless barrel. I figured it'd be good for "good measure" for holding the GB in place and to help with sealing.

About a year later I decided to change the handguard, and that required changing the barrel nut. You would not believe the hassle I had removing that GB. Long story a little shorter, it took a couple minutes of heating with my MAP gas torch and active pounding on the GB before it even started moving. I don't know how hot I got the GB but I could see heat ripples in the air from it. Wrecked my GB, BTW. You can see how scorched it got in the pic below And how mashed it got at the top. And even after the GB came off completely and I applied the a heat gun to the remaining residue, the hardened LT was was extremely difficult to scrape off.

Can't recall if I tried getting the residue off with Goof Off though, darn it. And it was in the cabinet right below where I was working. Probably won't dissolve it once LT's baked on. Although, according to some people, that's impossible. LT can only melt! I discovered different though. Never again will I use that stuff for this kind of application.

Permatex_penetrating.JPG GB1_tools.jpg IMG_4074.JPG

[montana]

Or just use a piece of dowel, available at any HW store in 36" sticks Rather than cut up a mop handle. I keep a couple pieces of 1" dowel for just this sort of job.


Not so simple sometimes. I once used a green "penetrating" version of LT (labeled as a Permatex product) under a gas block. This type of green LT is designed for post-installation thread treatments, etc. Flows like water, wicks into any void. Anyway, I applied it under a Troy low-pro gas block, a set screw type, on a GMR stainless barrel. I figured it'd be good for "good measure" for holding the GB in place and to help with sealing.

About a year later I decided to change the handguard, and that required changing the barrel nut. You would not believe the hassle I had removing that GB. Long story a little shorter, it took a couple minutes of heating with my MAP gas torch and active pounding on the GB before it even started moving. I don't know how hot I got the GB but I could see heat ripples in the air from it. Wrecked my GB, BTW. You can see how scorched it got in the pic below And how mashed it got at the top. And even after the GB came off completely and I applied the a heat gun to the remaining residue, the hardened LT was was extremely difficult to scrape off.

Can't recall if I tried getting the residue off with Goof Off though, darn it. And it was in the cabinet right below where I was working. Probably won't dissolve it once LT's baked on. Although, according to some people, that's impossible. LT can only melt! I discovered different though. Never again will I use that stuff for this kind of application.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17842[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]17843[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]17844[/ATTACH]

Sorry you had such a hard time with your gas block. The limit for green loctite is 450 degrees. It looks like you got your gas block way hotter than that. I have removed many gas blocks and gas tubes using heat and acetone soak. I go slow and can feel when the loctite begins to release by slowly twisting, never pounding with anything. I have never needed to use a dowel, punch or anything to hit any barrel or gas block, "I have bedded with blue or green loctite" to remove it. I would not have recommended using a claw hammer and small punch for removing the gas block. A rubber mallet or wide brass or aluminum punch and heavier ball peen hammer would have worked better.. I only apply a little loctite around the gas port opening to seal the gas, not around the entire gas block. Knowing how much and where to use is it, is important...

[SDW]

Thanks montana. Yeah, clearly you do it right. I did it wrong. LOL It was my first build, my first time installing a gas block. I way over-did it with the LT. Bonded the entire inner surface of the GB to the barrel. I think I actually tried twisting on the GB to get it to rotate but with no good result. I didn't want to throw a pipe wrench on it, and the upper was at that point clamped into my vice with one of those clamshell holders. I didn't want to over-torque the barrel and receiver.

BTW, just for the record since I didn't make it clear. I've never glued/LT'd a barrel into a receiver. My dowel comment was in reference to me just knocking out a tight barrel, like out of a BCM upper. Or one I had installed via shimming. That was mostly from before I discovered I can heat the receiver end with my torch.

[montana]

Thanks montana. Yeah, clearly you do it right. I did it wrong. LOL It was my first build, my first time installing a gas block. I way over-did it with the LT. Bonded the entire inner surface of the GB to the barrel. I think I actually tried twisting on the GB to get it to rotate but with no good result. I didn't want to throw a pipe wrench on it, and the upper was at that point clamped into my vice with one of those clamshell holders. I didn't want to over-torque the barrel and receiver.

BTW, just for the record since I didn't make it clear. I've never glued/LT'd a barrel into a receiver. My dowel comment was in reference to me just knocking out a tight barrel, like out of a BCM upper. Or one I had installed via shimming. That was mostly from before I discovered I can heat the receiver end with my torch.

I have been working on the AR platform since the late 70's. I look at mistakes as tuition cost for learning, needless to say I have had plenty of expense along the way. That said, I learn something new all the time. There is a lot of differing opinions and methods when working on the AR platform and it is only through trial and error we sort out the best methods that work the best.. That said, there is always another way to skin a cat.. Even renowned armorers and manufacturers will have conflicting information. The only caution is trying not to upset people who have differing opinions. People take pride in their knowledge and methods and it can become a sensitive subject when others disagree. Having a thick skin along the way helps

[Klem]

I wonder whether an induction coil heater would work in getting off that block.

It was mentioned here recently in a thread on brass annealing and I have bit the bullet and bought one - it hasn't arrived yet.

You could adjust the coils to go around the gas block and heat the whole block evenly and at the same time. With a torch you'd have to go around it by bit and I wonder if parts of the block would cool as you were heating other parts. I know it is a lot of money but if you already had the device surely it would work. I also see cheaper induction coils which are just exposed circuit boards on Youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLRgDZeYQ-M

[SDW]

I have been working on the AR platform since the late 70's. I look at mistakes as tuition cost for learning, needless to say I have had plenty of expense along the way. That said, I learn something new all the time.

Feel free to add this experience of mine, at least anecdotally, to your lexicon. "This one guy Loctited his gas block entirely onto his barrel...."

I can't recall why I chose to use the claw hammer in lieu of my ballpeen or even my plastic covered dead-blow hammer. Might have been because it's a little lighter than the ballpeen and I was trying to be precise in the angle and force of the blows. I was trying very hard not to ding up my barrel during that procedure. I was nearly successful. I could have wrapped the barrel in cardboard, like cereal box grade. But then I could not have heated the GB with a torch.

[montana]

Feel free to add this experience of mine, at least anecdotally, to your lexicon. "This one guy Loctited his gas block entirely onto his barrel...."

I can't recall why I chose to use the claw hammer in lieu of my ballpeen or even my plastic covered dead-blow hammer. Might have been because it's a little lighter than the ballpeen and I was trying to be precise in the angle and force of the blows. I was trying very hard not to ding up my barrel during that procedure. I was nearly successful. I could have wrapped the barrel in cardboard, like cereal box grade. But then I could not have heated the GB with a torch.

I use home made aluminum or brass punches.. It is easy to hide any aluminum punch residue with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod4941.aspx If the steel gets marred, I use https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod24776.aspx Brass or aluminum punches will not mar or flatten steel like steel punches will.. I use gorrila tape on my receivers when installing any roll pins etc...

[SDW]

Ah, thanks. I actually have brass punches too. Smallish ones. I use them all the time for driving in roll pins, etc. Plus some aluminum bar stock that I could have used I suppose. I'm starting to wonder if I really cared about that gas block now. LOL It leaked gas pretty bad, IMO. It was open at the front. Below are a couple of "before" pics. You can see how it was spewing black gunk all over the barrel at both ends. I know it's not supposed to be a perfectly tight seal, bug this struck me as inefficient as well as kind ugly looking. I replaced it with a BCM GB. Closed at the front.

AR_gas_block_leak_2.jpg AR_gas_block_leak_1.jpg

[SDW]

I wonder whether an induction coil heater would work in getting off that block.

It was mentioned here recently in a thread on brass annealing and I have bit the bullet and bought one - it hasn't arrived yet.

You could adjust the coils to go around the gas block and heat the whole block evenly and at the same time. With a torch you'd have to go around it by bit and I wonder if parts of the block would cool as you were heating other parts. I know it is a lot of money but if you already had the device surely it would work. I also see cheaper induction coils which are just exposed circuit boards on Youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLRgDZeYQ-M

That is a really neat device. I like this idea for annealing better than putting the cases on a little turntable with a gas flame running. And it comes with coils of larger diameters looks like. It could be used then for heating receiver front for installing/removing tight barrels too I'll bet. You would just have to make sure the coil can be removed afterward. Means no GI type triangle sight bases.

And Zeneffect, the OP, I had never heard of that kind of Goof Off. Had to look it up. Thanks for the tip!

[montana]

From what I understand the old Goof Off was mostly xylene and the newer Goof Off is mostly acetone, which is what I soak my parts in..

[montana]

Ah, thanks. I actually have brass punches too. Smallish ones. I use them all the time for driving in roll pins, etc. Plus some aluminum bar stock that I could have used I suppose. I'm starting to wonder if I really cared about that gas block now. LOL It leaked gas pretty bad, IMO. It was open at the front. Below are a couple of "before" pics. You can see how it was spewing black gunk all over the barrel at both ends. I know it's not supposed to be a perfectly tight seal, bug this struck me as inefficient as well as kind ugly looking. I replaced it with a BCM GB. Closed at the front.

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That gas block looks terrible. The gas tube port side should be around .180 .181 to .182 in size, if memory serves. The gas tube end should be .180 as best, .177 as fair and .176 as poor in size. BCM gas blocks have worked well for my builds when an adjustable was not wanted.. The gas block journal opening and barrel journal size difference is also important for gas seal. Gas leakage from the gas block, gas tube, gas key, bolt carrier three chambers, under powered ammunition, and wrong buffer system can create problems with a correct sized gas port..Throw in an incorrect cut chamber, throat, under or over sized barrel port, tolerances at opposite ends with the receivers, fire control group, barrel extension, weak extractor, weak or clogged ejector, over strong extractor, clocked barrel, clocked gas block, poorly manufactured buffer tube, incorrect bolt carrier length, etc and it can be even more fun finding the problem with a malfunctioning AR..

[SDW]

Yes that does look pretty bad, doesn't it. I'm glad you agree. I never fired it at night. I wonder if I'd have seen a flame/flash shooting out the front and back.

[Zeneffect]

That induction coil kit comes with straight wire as well to wrap your own coil. It's nothing fancy, just some copper wire and high temp insulator. I did my own coils wrapping around a deep socket.

My can of goof off says xylene btw and is a few years old.

[Bretandry]

I loosen the barrel nut a couple threads then put the whole works barrel nut down and supported in the arbor press. Doing it this way you are still pressing against the mostly engaged threads till it pops loose. A small arbor press is a very very handy item to have in your build room.

[A5BLASTER]

I loosen the barrel nut a couple threads then put the whole works barrel nut down and supported in the arbor press. Doing it this way you are still pressing against the mostly engaged threads till it pops loose. A small arbor press is a very very handy item to have in your build room.

Sound alike a good way too rip off a thread.

Seriously guys. Its locktite, just unscrew the barrel nut and tap the barrel out with a peice of wood rod or mop handle and a rubber mallet. It's not like its welded in there.