Tight gas block.

[Whelenon]

Trying to install my gas block on a barrel that has a cerakote finish on it. It won't tap on and I don't want to force it. My block has the set screws, not the clamping style. Barrel gas block surface measures .751, gas block ID measures .7495.

Any suggestions?

[chuckt53]

use a heat gun on the block. Heat will cause the metal to expan. Should side right in, Use gloves for the installation. I had the same problem, worked on mine

Chuck

[LRRPF52]

I actually prefer to Cerakote a barrel with the gas block installed already for this reason, since it adds significant surface thickness. Otherwise, I use a gigantic brass insert for handguards so they don't get smashed when machining them in a vice. It has a hole drilled through the middle of it, and I use heavy duty tape to cover the fore-end while I tap the gas block into position. It's a royal pain, and takes a lot of patience with appropriate force, but it gets it done.

On my 16" Grendel I Cerakoted the gas block and barrel with the gas block in place, since it is a VLTOR clamp-on low-profile, and there is no barrel nut on the barrel. I drop it into my MGI Quick Barrel Change system.

[txgunner00]

use a heat gun on the block. Heat will cause the metal to expan. Should side right in, Use gloves for the installation. I had the same problem, worked on mine

Chuck

same here

[StoneTower]

use a heat gun on the block. Heat will cause the metal to expan. Should side right in, Use gloves for the installation. I had the same problem, worked on mine

Chuck

I would not do that as if you ever need it off, you will have to cut it off. You might not even get it indexed correctly before is shrinks back to size never to move again. You can't heat it back up again to get it to move as the barrel and the gas block will expand at a similar rate.

If you are set on using that gas block, you could use a brake hone to open it up a bit. My father taught me to always modify the least expensive part.

[samalama76]

I'm with Stone Tower on this one, definitely better to open open the inside diameter of the gas block as opposed to heating and shrinking, beating and banging. In this situation it is better to ruin the gas block instead of potentially ruining your barrel.

[Whelenon]

I would not do that as if you ever need it off, you will have to cut it off. You might not even get it indexed correctly before is shrinks back to size never to move again. You can't heat it back up again to get it to move as the barrel and the gas block will expand at a similar rate.

If you are set on using that gas block, you could use a brake hone to open it up a bit. My father taught me to always modify the least expensive part.

This make a lot sense, especially "modify the lest expensive part". Words to live by.
My first thought, tape of the barrel except were the gas block mounts and sand the cerakote down with fine wet/dry sandpaper.

[BjornF16]

If it were me, I'd get a "clamp on" style gas block...if not an option, then open up the one you have. You could probably sell you current gas block for a minor less (while saving yourself major headaches).

[Whelenon]

I got it. Polished the barrel with 320 wet sandpaper. I was surprised at how little sanding it took to remove the cerakote. Gas Block fits perfect, nice metal to metal contact.
Thanks fellas.

[Clod Stomper]

I would not do that as if you ever need it off, you will have to cut it off. You might not even get it indexed correctly before is shrinks back to size never to move again. You can't heat it back up again to get it to move as the barrel and the gas block will expand at a similar rate.

If you are set on using that gas block, you could use a brake hone to open it up a bit. My father taught me to always modify the least expensive part.

Yep. BTDT. Had to cut it off.

Will