Should I get a Muzzle Brake or an H2 buffer?

[Smith5361]

Shot my Grendel for the First time which is an 18 inch gun and noticed a bit of Muzzle jump and a little recoil. Originally planned on an a JP customs Brake but have also heard that I should changed out the buffer as well for an H2 due to the Carbine versions not holding up over time. Will a Brake help with this or should I just do both? Also my lower is a RRA lower with a Commercial tube, who makes a good buffer that is Compatable?
Thanks

[NugginFutz]

I've not personally heard about excessive wear on buffers, but I seriously doubt that a brake will improve or mitigate buffer wear issues. The brake will aid in recoil reduction and, if appropriately ported, also reduce muzzle rise/motion (useful for followup shots or self-spotting). The bolt speed won't be affected by a muzzle brake, as far as I know.

Buffers? Both my Carbine length and Rifle length setups run well. As long as my Grendel continues to cycle correctly and reliably, I'll stick with them. I defer to those who know more about such things, but my first inclination is to fix only those things that are broken.

Perceived quality issues aside, commercial or milspec buffer tubes generally only differ on their Outer diameters, not their inside diameters. Whichever carbine length buffer you choose should be compatible.

[superfred]

I've not personally heard about excessive wear on buffers, but I seriously doubt that a brake will improve or mitigate buffer wear issues. The brake will aid in recoil reduction and, if appropriately ported, also reduce muzzle rise/motion (useful for followup shots or self-spotting). The bolt speed won't be affected by a muzzle brake, as far as I know.

Buffers? Both my Carbine length and Rifle length setups run well. As long as my Grendel continues to cycle correctly and reliably, I'll stick with them. I defer to those who know more about such things, but my first inclination is to fix only those things that are broken.

Perceived quality issues aside, commercial or milspec buffers generally only differ on their Outer diameters, not their inside diameters. Whichever carbine length buffer you choose should be compatible.

I believe the going wisdom is to install a H3 buffer in heavily gassed rounds like 6.5, 6.8, and 300 blk. Or you can go with a rifle buffer setup and it will be identical to a H3 essentially.

[Klem]

I believe the going wisdom is to install a H3 buffer in heavily gassed rounds like 6.5, 6.8, and 300 blk. Or you can go with a rifle buffer setup and it will be identical to a H3 essentially.

With respect, just because the Grendel and Blackout are bigger calibres does not mean they are heavier gassed. The SAAMI max peak-pressure is actually less for Blackout and Grendel than it is for 5.56NATO. Approx 51,000lbs compared to 5.56NATO 62,000lbs. With the larger bore diameters of the Grendel and Blackout that lower pressure to start with drops quicker than 5.56, which means the larger calibers will actually have less pressure available at the same length gas port.

Typical pressures at the 7" carbine-length gas block are;
5.56mm supersonic 28,200lbs
Blackout supersonic 10,800lbs
Blackout subsonic 6,900lbs

I use a H3 buffer for 5.56 and a normal light milspec buffer for the Blackout.

Blackout barrel manufacturers like CMMG and Noveske are offering more pistol-length (4") gas ports than they used to because of under-gassing issues.

I would consider both a heavier buffer and a brake for taming recoil and slowing the recoil impulse. I'm thinking go the heaviest buffer that will guarantee reliable cycling for the ammo you use. The heavier the buffer the more momentum there is to feed the next round and go into battery when the gun is getting dirty and dusty.

[LRRPF52]

It's optimal to balance your operating system to your particular gas system length, carrier weight, average range of projectile lengths & weights, and buffer weight.

For example:

I have a 16" MLGS AA barrel. I prefer to use M16 carriers since they are standard weight.

I found that the H2 buffer works well for me in my carbine extension tube, ranging in projectile weights from 100gr NBT, up to 129gr SST. I have had no malfs with any of those, but I have had some issues with 90gr TNT discontinued AA factory load. I think it was known for being finicky in some of the guns.

Even with a lightweight gun (8.6lbs with 2.5-10x44 Scope), I don't find any appreciable recoil considerations with the Grendel.

[superfred]

I learn something new everyday. Do you think a H3 will be way too heavy for a 20" rifle length carbine buffer? It will be nice if shooting ranges will let people rent buffers of various weights so they can purchase what works for them.

I found this listing on another forum and added some more info:
Car std 3.0oz
Car H 3.8oz
Spike T2 4.3oz (tungsten powder)
Car H2 4.6oz
Car H3 5.4oz
RRA 9mm 5.6oz

Vtlor has its own proprietary A5 system:
H0, 3.8 oz
H1, 4.56oz
H2, 5.33oz
H3, 6.08oz
H4, 6.83oz

[LRRPF52]

I learn something new everyday. Do you think a H3 will be way too heavy for a 20" rifle length carbine buffer? It will be nice if shooting ranges will let people rent buffers of various weights so they can purchase what works for them.

I found this listing on another forum and added some more info:
Car std 3.0oz
Car H 3.8oz
Spike T2 4.3oz (tungsten powder)
Car H2 4.6oz
Car H3 5.4oz
RRA 9mm 5.6oz

Vtlor has its own proprietary A5 system:
H0, 3.8 oz
H1, 4.56oz
H2, 5.33oz
H3, 6.08oz
H4, 6.83oz

Do you mean 20" barrel RLGS, carbine extension tube and buffer? With a RLGS, you have less port pressure, and a very smooth operating system usually. Standard Rifle buffers are normally 5.1 oz. If you have a reduced weight carrier, consider a heavier buffer.

[kamrr4437]

A comp will definately help with your recoil. Spikes tacticals T2 is a good buffer and you can add a Tubbs Flat wire spring which is a cheap but well worth it upgrade to help with the dwell time since its a carbine gas system. But i dont think it will wear out your present buffer anyway. Alot of good info here from the guys. Good luck.

[Smith5361]

Appreciate all the good info. Now on the subjects of brakes, who makes a good one for a grendel

[ricsmall]

Which thread pattern do ya have?

[Smith5361]

5/8-24

[superfred]

Brakes are essentially universal among all guns, as long as you have the correct thread, and the bullet diameter isn't greater than your muzzle brake hole!
5.56 light barrels often have a 1/2" thread.
I've seen Grendel barrels come in 9/16 (AlexanderArms) and 5/8 (PrecisionFirearms) for example. Just choose the brake/flash hider you like and see if they offer a version for 5/8-24 (a standard size for many .308 barrels)

[NugginFutz]

If your barrel is a heavy profile, my personal favorite, available in 5/8-24, is the Miculek brake.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/910504/dpms-muzzle-brake-miculek-5-8-24-thread-lr-308-steel-parkerized

If may not be the fanciest looker at the ball, but it is VERY effective and comes with a super price tag. I have one on both my Grendel Bull Barrel, and on my CZ550 .308 Varminter. The .308 feels like a .243, and the 6.5 even lighter. I have no difficulty spotting my own shots at long range, with this brake.

[ricsmall]

I have a pri in 5/8-24 that I was thinking of selling. It's the mstn straight brake. Look in my album on my Grendel if interested. It works great, but I don't need the recoil reduction or the noise. Pm if interested. I hope I didn't break any rules here, if so please delete mods.

Richard

[Smith5361]

I have a pri in 5/8-24 that I was thinking of selling. It's the mstn straight brake. Look in my album on my Grendel if interested. It works great, but I don't need the recoil reduction or the noise. Pm if interested. I hope I didn't break any rules here, if so please delete mods.

Richard

Appreciate it but looks like yours is made for a heavier barrel. Would looks silly on my gun.
Thanks