Help needed asap!!!

[benthompson]

Hey guys, I have my complete flat top AR-15 and now I want to convert it to the 6.5 Grendel. What do I need besides a barrel? What is a good accurate barrel that wont break the bank? Also what is the break in on the barrel? I am going to be hunting coyotes with this gun. Thanks in advance and I need this help asap

[Sojorboy]

Hello Ben and Welcome.
Besides the barrel you will need a Grendel bolt and Grendel mags.
As far as which barrel, I'll let some of the more seasoned veterans point the way.

[benthompson]

Doesn't the Grendel use the same mag and bolt carrier assembly? I was reading on here(I think) that the only change was the barrel and maybe now that I think about it, the bolt

[bertrunner]

im no pro but if you look around on here you can find some guys that know where to get good barrels i have a Jt distrubuting upper with a shaw barrel. they seem to be pretty cheap i got mine real cheap for a private seller you might look at there website and see what you. i have shot mine a few times and love it. here is a link http://jtdistributing.net/store/index.html

[Deezil]

Barrel, bolt, magazine needed for 6.5G

[CPT.CRAZY]

You will need a barrel, bolt( not the bolt carrier) and mags. Look in the equipment exchange on the forum usually has barrels and bolts.

[benthompson]

Thanks guys

[Schwag173]

If I were you, I'd pick up a "barrel & bolt kit" from Alexander Arms: http://www.alexanderarms.com/index.php/products.html.

As for magazines, try ASC (Ammunition Storage Components) at: http://www.ammosc.com/storename/ammu...pt-273393.aspx

[Whelenon]

Most of the barrels come with a matching bolt. I have not seen anybody offering a barrel without the bolt and I would not buy a barrel without the matching bolt. I also would not buy a barrel that is not the 6.5 Grendel SAAMI chamber.

My local gunshop had some 18" Lowther Walther barrels in stock last week when I was there, they might even have mags.

http://www.precisiongunworks.com/

You'll need a Grendel magazine. I've read here that the 6.8 mags work but I don't have any personal experience with them.

[Bwild97]

If you are buying your barrel and bolt from separate sources; you really should have it head spaced before attempting to fire it. Make sure you get the proper bolt for the chamber in the barrel, too. And as Schwag173 mentioned; buying a "Barrel & Bolt Kit" is the easiest way of making sure you get the right parts, and the correct head-space.

[noone]

Everyone so far has been accurate with their information. The only thing no one has written back about is barrel break in. Barrel break in is a hotly contested item. Some manufacturers recommend it, others require it, while still other manufacturers say no break in is required.

If a manufacturer requires break in, I'll do it grudgingly. It is my belief that manufacturers have far more skill at finishing out a barrel than I do. They also have the equipment which I don't have that will allow them to look into barrels and examine throat quality.

It is my belief that any manufacturer who wants the end user to finish up on a rough throat that they didn't properly polish or finish might be better avoided. Buying a barrel I have to finish is sort of like buying a boat that includes instructions on how to fix the leaks that the boat comes with from the manufacturer.

Some very noted gun makers have written articles stating that barrel break in is a myth that helps barrel makers sell barrels. If a high end barrel on a high pressure rifle (like my 300 win mag) is only good for about 1000-1200 rounds, and the manufacturer wants you to spend 100 rounds breaking in the barrel, it seems sort of self serving in that you have to burn up that much barrel life just so you can shoot it accurately...then of course, you have to buy a barrel about 10% faster...

[bwaites]

Barrel break in simply means shoot it! Quality barrels, ESPECIALLY hand lapped barrels, shouldn't need much break in. I shot a TINY group in the first 50 rounds from my Grendel 28" barrel.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't run a patch through to make sure no pieces of debris worked their way into the barrel, but you shouldn't need to do anything but shoot it and clean it normally otherwise.

[txgunner00]

Everyone so far has been accurate with their information. The only thing no one has written back about is barrel break in. Barrel break in is a hotly contested item. Some manufacturers recommend it, others require it, while still other manufacturers say no break in is required.

If a manufacturer requires break in, I'll do it grudgingly. It is my belief that manufacturers have far more skill at finishing out a barrel than I do. They also have the equipment which I don't have that will allow them to look into barrels and examine throat quality.

It is my belief that any manufacturer who wants the end user to finish up on a rough throat that they didn't properly polish or finish might be better avoided. Buying a barrel I have to finish is sort of like buying a boat that includes instructions on how to fix the leaks that the boat comes with from the manufacturer.

Some very noted gun makers have written articles stating that barrel break in is a myth that helps barrel makers sell barrels. If a high end barrel on a high pressure rifle (like my 300 win mag) is only good for about 1000-1200 rounds, and the manufacturer wants you to spend 100 rounds breaking in the barrel, it seems sort of self serving in that you have to burn up that much barrel life just so you can shoot it accurately...then of course, you have to buy a barrel about 10% faster...

I agree. I've discussed this with my gunsmith at length and looked at a number of barrels through his bore scope. He is a highly decorated match shooter as well and says breaking in a barrel is a waste in his experience, especially on a good quality barrel.

[txgunner00]

Barrel break in simply means shoot it! Quality barrels, ESPECIALLY hand lapped barrels, shouldn't need much break in. I shot a TINY group in the first 50 rounds from my Grendel 28" barrel.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't run a patch through to make sure no pieces of debris worked their way into the barrel, but you shouldn't need to do anything but shoot it and clean it normally otherwise.

Bingo. I took a look at my Satern barrel before shooting and it looked like a mirror. Tight little groups right out of the box too.