Mid price upper build constructive criticism welcome!

[Medic22]

Hey guys, so I jumped into this 6.5 build and I was looking to build a mid price AR with enough accuracy for 600-1000 yard shots. I am a hunter and I will also be using this to hunt on occasion. Not so much a rifle hunter anyway. Archery is my cup o tea. So here's what I've got, any advice or anything let me know. I'll post up pix as soon as I get her put together. Love my AR family .223/300 blk and my newest addition 6.5 Grendel.

Aero precision stripped upper
BCM forward assist
USMC ejection port door (marine vet)
Spikes tactical lower
Timney 2 stage short pull 2+2lb pull trigger
Luth-Ar mb3 carbine butt stock
Thorsden customs carbine buffer
Rousch forend (these things are awesome, super light, hold up well. Use one on my 300 and for the price of 69$ Can't be beat and comes with 6 rail sections. I just can't shell out out 189$ for a piece of aluminum.)
Odin 20" DMR Cerakote USMC red.
Matched Odin bolt and BCG
Acid tactical grip
Holden Irish curse muzzle device
Vortex viper PST 4-16x50 scope
SWFA S.S.A.L.T base

Think that's about it. All parts should be here by mon can't wait to get it all together. All parts are black except for barrel. Ive used Odin barrels before and have had good luck with them on my 300. Plus they are from Idaho down the street so kept it local. We'll see how it shoots. Let me know what you think.

[diddlyv]

I'm probably going to be accused of heresy but most of the parts absolutely don't matter. A good barrel, tight fit between upper and lower and a good trigger will have the most effect on the accuracy. You will know how the receivers mate when you put it together. Pretty sure an old devil dog could teach this Dog face grunt how to shim the recievers to be tight. Timney makes great triggers. Please let us know how the beast shoots. I think it will work just fine from what I have seen the Odin is a pretty decent barrel.

I received my first grendel upper this week. Made the opening bid on GB ended up getting it. A green anodized receiver and green key mod 15 inch free float tube. I probably should have bid on the black one!

Went super cheap and ordered and Rguns complete lower(only green anodized I could find) with IMI OD furniture. Hope I do not live to regret the Rguns lower. Once I hit the range will let you know if the rifle and this old dog face can still shoot

[Medic22]

Diddlyv you're pretty right. It's nice having name brand basic parts to add to your list. But most uppers/lowers that type of thing are all made by one or two or three different company's then rebranded. I agree with barrel/trigger/glass in that order. You get what you pay for. I've built a few 300 blk and 5.56 with expensive and budget parts and there's not much of a difference. Maybe if your a match shooter you might be able to tell. Anyway I can't wait to get this built. I hope it turns out as well as most of the stuff I've read here.

[VASCAR2]

If your chasing accuracy make sure the face of the receiver is true(square). Brownell's sells a lapping tool that ensures the barrel is square with the receiver. I used blue Loctite to bed the surface of my barrel to the receiver even though it was a snug fit. I also used blue loctite to bond the clamp on gas block. Some prefer to use red Loctite on gas blocks which will take more heat before loosing it's grip.

If your serious about shooting to 1000 yards you might need a canted scope mount. At sea level you'll need a 20 MOA mount with a 20" barrel but high in the mountains you might not need a canted base. I'm using a 20 MOA mount so my scope will have enough elevation without having to use the mildots to range the final distance after my scope top outs.

Sounds like your going to have a great build. Be sure to post pictures and a range report! Are you going to shoot factory ammo or do you also reload?

[Medic22]

Thanks vascar2, yea I have a few 20 MOA mounts here at home from other projects. I'll take a look at that tool from brownells also. I usually do pretty much the same thing with the blue loctite made a huge difference truing up my .223. I'll be shooting a lot in the mountains but some flat desert shooting as well. Should be pretty fun. I'm excited to get this thing built. Final parts arriving on Monday. Well minus the barrel/bolt. I will also be shooting some factory but will be reloading for the most part.

[danm]

Man that sounds like a pretty decent build, you'll be fine to 1000 without the 20moa mount at Boise altitudes but it certainly couldn't hurt!

[diddlyv]

Medic

SITREP??

[Medic22]

Hey diddlyv, so I got it together. Found a box of hornady 123 sst to run through it to break my barrel in. After 20 rounds the 8 MOA group at 100 yards kinda had me scratching my head. Then I looked at my brass and realized that my brass was kinda blown out about 3/4 down the case from the neck. So I scratched my head some more. Then I cried since I knew at that moment my barrel was complete loss.

Good news. It's an Odin works barrel and just so happens Odin is down the street from me. So I took it in along with my brass and said ummmm your 1 MOA guarantee isn't working. Lol. They looked at it and said yup it's messed up. Good people excellent service. The second they got a more blanks in my 20 in was the first one done. They put my upper back to get her and test fired it. So I pick d it up the other day. I haven't had a chance to go shoot since it's my long stretch at work but I'll give you a heads up after I do.

On a side note my buddy just ordered a "budget" barrel from a company called spinta (sp?) first box of 20 rounds, and 10 rounds in about .5 MOA. I am impressed.

[Medic22]

http://imgur.com/cdS0OdC. Here's a pic. Only way I can figure out how to post it from the iPad.

[diddlyv]

Sorry to hear of the problem. Let me know how things work out. Great looking rifle.
What bipod are you using??

I hope to hit the range again next week with mine. Think I will try Varget and CFE223 loads and Possibly .1 grain more and less of the lever.

mine is shooting about 2.5 min now probably good enough for deer out to 300. I think it should shoot better.
I am going to do a good scrub of the bore as well. The barrel has had about 60 plus rounds thru it. I am thinking it should be about as broke in as it will ever be.

I also plan to try my Anderson Lower with the RR NM 2 stage trigger vs the abysmal Rguns standard trigger.

[RicosRevenge]

I wouldn't own a 2.5 MOA rifle. If it won't shoot 1 MOA or better it would be down the road faster than a looter in Missouri no matter how inexpensive it was. There is no justification for or tolerance of an inferior shooting rifle (in my opinion).

Medic, I'm curious to know how the new barrel will shoot. You were fortunate to be so close to Odin Works and I hope they got you sorted out.

Since I've already crossed the "Opinion" subject as far as budget: A good shooting build always takes a bit of luck whether it be a cheap build or an uber-expensive custom. Some budget builds just work (I still own a 5.56 I built several years ago that on paper shouldn't do what it does). Unfortunately, the truth is that the guys that spend the money on higher quality seem to get "lucky" more often.

[diddlyv]

Medic a couple of questions
What gas block are you using standard or adjustable? Are you using a standard / milspec buffer spring?
I am seriously considering an Odin 20 inch barrel. Thanks for the Tip on the KeyMod Fore end. Even after spending $20 for the foreend adapter and the barrel nut that would be included in the complete barrel combo I would save $70 by getting the same fore end you are using.

Vascar I think I will jump on the brownell tool to true the face of the receiver. Do you think it would be worth the effort to pull the barrel on the Barrier Defense upper and true it as well?

[VASCAR2]

If the rifle is shooting good groups and doesn't need a lot of windage I wouldn't pull the barrel. If the rifle isn't shooting as good as most 223/5.56 AR-15's I'd consider pulling the barrel. The 6.5 Grendel cartridge is inheritantly accurate and with good ammunition can produce very good results.

The barrel needs to be snug in the upper receiver. If there is a loose fit between the barrel and upper accuracy will suffer so shimming the barrel or use of blue Loctite might be required to get a snug fit. Squaring the face of the reciever can help in getting that snug fit that is straight and true with the receiver. My last build with a Shilen barrel had to be tapped into the reciever and the reciever was square. My zero required no windage adjustment on my brand new scope. This 6.5 Grendel shoots way better than my ability.

[diddlyv]

Well I ordered the Receiver truing tool and some 600 grit lapping compound from brownells today. Almost screwed up and got the wheeler truing kit of amazon, thankfully I read the reviews before clicking the buy button. Many bad review and talk of need to true the face of the tool. I am also in the process of ordering parts for a 20 inch Grendel. Thanks medic for a couple of hot tips. The rousch Key mod Forend for under $70 is a winner especially with the 6 free rail segments. I also really like the looks of your butts. Given you were a Marine and not a squid you know I was referring to Butt Stock.

Do you have a range report on the new Odin barrel? Also how do you like the fully adjustable butt and cheekpiece?

[diddlyv]

Medic had a chance to wring out the new barrel???