What is the best buffer to use?

[LRS_Ranger]

I head that this was discussed on the old site, but alas, it is all gone. So, I will ask you all, what is the best buffer for the Grendel? I heard that people have had issues with hydraulic buffers. Since the Grendel is a bit hotter of a round, should I get a heavier buffer to slow down the action and delay unlocking? Right now I have an Endine carbine size buffer, but I am thinking about switching to my H2 or heavier...

-Nathan

[madcratebuilder]

I have a Vltor Emod A5 on mine, hope to try it this weekend.

[longdayjake]

There were reports of people breaking their bolts while using endine buffers. Your buffer will depend on your particular rifle. I think a heavier buffer is probably wise and you might even look at using a military full auto carrier to add some weight to slow it down.

[warped]

We have H3G buffers available, they have been tuned to work with the grendel.

There were a few customers from this site before it went down, I am sure they will let you know what the they thought of them.

One guy purchased two more of them.

[Hoot]

If you're interested in a weighted bolt, have a modest tool compliment and the wherewithal to use them, Here's an article I did on making your own. Works really well and the price is right.

Hoot

[warped]

There is a very good reason to not put a weight into the carrier.

This may work for now but I would use extreme caution, the carrier has set design and it is important.

Do you realize that you now have a carrier that is overweight and unbalanced?

There is a optimum weight for each cartridge, this ignores that data.

Another thing that occurs when you have too much weight in the carrier is that it beats the crap out of the bolt and bbl extension.

[Hoot]

After 723 rounds of 450 Bushmaster it is doing fine and it doesn't beat up the brass. The 450B, for whatever reason, uses a carbine length gas tube. The additional weight seems to offset the fast unlocking nature of the gas system. Examining the carrier,it has little to no wear marks that would indicate the balance being upset. No FTFs, no FTEs. Runs like a swiss watch and throws sub MOA groups at 100 yards. Here is one of many 5 shot 100 yard targets:



I have a stack of targets like that if you want to see more. It actually makes the cycle of the buffer and spring a lot more gentle than without it. You really feel the difference on the bench. Lots of folks talking about variable gas blocks, special buffers and/or springs for the 6.5 Grendel, so I figured I'd throw that out as another way to slow the unlocking inertial moment. If you haven't tried it, don't judge it in absentia.

Hoot

[LRS_Ranger]

Thanks for the help all.. I did switch out my Endine with an H2. As it is a little heavier (I think, though I don't have a postal scale) it slowed down my action a bit and actually makes it feel like there is no recoil at all. I have never shot an AR type rifle where you couldn't feel the buffer at least tap the end of the buffer tube. It's pretty sweet, the reticle barely jumps with each shot! Is this what it's supposed to feel like? I'm hoping that reliability doesn't suffer as the action is just gassed enough to cycle the bolt. It seems that it wouldn't take much to start short stroking. All the military rifles (and my LWRC) I have shot seem excessively over gassed, I am assuming to ensure reliability?

[noone]

I think that over-gassed can cause a different set of problems than under-gassed. The hard part if figuring out where the "Goldilocks zone" of just enough gas for reliability and low recoil is located. Alexander Arms would be an excellent source of info as Mr. Alexander does extensive testing on just about anything you can imagine.

[warped]

Add a WCI brake and the rifle won't move.

That is what I am always getting at by a rifle being properly tuned, everything in balance and nothing left wanting.

The idea is to make it work within spec and reduce any harsh forces.

[warped]

I make the H3G for the Grendel, it works great with Beowulf and 5.56mm as well.

If we were to view it in use by a high speed camera we would see that the bolt does not bounce and the that movement is smoothed with a slower unlock time.

It works really well on full auto, together with a can or the WCI it makes it feel like a toy.

There are a few guys that should be coming back to this site soon that are using both, they were really happy.

[hawkinpup]

+1 on the WCI

[noone]

The WCI brake I had worked great at reducing recoil. But because it had ports 360 degrees around it, I couldn't keep it on the rifle for practical rifle matches. Because of the ground blast, it kicked up so much junk I had to slow down and wait for the junk from the ground blast to clear so I could continue firing. Having to wait for the dust cloud to clear really hurts in matches where time is an integral part of your score. The increase in recoil wasn't as detrimental to my scores as the dust kicked up.

If WCI would make a brake with no ports on the bottom though......

[warped]

We have an adjustable type,if I just don't have the bottom holes of the sleeve drilled it would do as you like when closed, open it would work the same.

This might suit your needs, we make them to be as efficient as possible, leaving that much area unused would lessen the effectiveness a measurable amount.

Look at your brake, I think you can picture how it works, if you close off those intersecting holes it starts working like other brakes.

We don't try to match others performance, we want to outperform them all.

I suppose I could make you what you want, it would however lose a little performance.

Remember that these were tested in Iraq, they had little problem with it.

Sounds like you have an area that has been mechanically disturbed (scrapers or dozers) that clay will be like talcum powder unless you use a watering truck.

It was even fired indoors, with electronic ear pro on, similar to Walkers tactical ears.

[warped]

The increase in recoil wasn't as detrimental to my scores as the dust kicked up.

If WCI would make a brake with no ports on the bottom though......

If you want a quick fix, have the outside ports welded shut where you need them closed, do not do more than the outside surface.
Then chuck it in lathe or file and re-coat it.

That should do what you want and leaves it pretty efficient.

Unfortunately that would void the warranty on materials and workmanship.