Zero distance used and why???

[lrgrendel]

Up to 1000 yds what are people using for zero distance regarding ballistic calculations.
I have some experience with 308 WIN using JBM and have always used 100 yds.

The numbers have been pretty close.

Soon to be throwing Hornady 123 AMAX out of my Grendel that way and am wondering people's thoughts.

Thanks

[bwaites]

Up to 1000 yds what are people using for zero distance regarding ballistic calculations.
I have some experience with 308 WIN using JBM and have always used 100 yds.

The numbers have been pretty close.

Soon to be throwing Hornady 123 AMAX out of my Grendel that way and am wondering people's thoughts.

Thanks

My 1000 yard guns are zeroed at 400 yards. Everything else I own is zeroed at 100. I zero the long range guns at 400 because it makes it much quicker to get to 1000. However, if I have a 1000 yard range available consistently, I'll leave them zeroed at 1000.

[lrgrendel]

Hi
Is that last sentence a typo??

Thanks

[bwaites]

However, if I have a 1000 yard range available consistently, I'll leave them zeroed at 1000.

That one? Yep! If I'm going to be shooting at 1000 before I shoot at anything else, I'll just zero there, slip the knobs, and leave it alone. My 7mm WSM is seldom shot anywhere shorter than 800 yards, so its just as easy to come down to 800 as go up to 1000, so it stays zeroed at 1000.

My 28" Grendel is zeroed at 400, but it may be set at 1000 for months at a time depending on the shooting schedule.

My 20" Grendel and other rifles are zeroed at 100.

[mongoosesnipe]

my guns get zeroed at 100 bacause thats the longest range i have around me....

[CPT.CRAZY]

I'm zeroed at 200 yrds, that's how far I can shoot at my local range.

[Drifter]

I zero at 200 for hunting applications. A deer or coyote inside ~250 yards requires no adjustment, allowing for a quick shot. I can dial up or hold over for longer shots as needed.

Also, I set the zero-stop on the elevation turret so that I can dial down slightly for 100 yards, whether for target shooting or woods hunting.

[SG4247]

Depends on the intended use of the rifle.

My stuff is zeroed at 200 yds also. This requires virtually no compensation from 100-200 yards weather I am shooting steel plates in competition, or deer from the tree stand. 300, 400, and 500 yard shots are simple MOA UP dial adjustments on the trusted 6.5-20 scope.
I rarely miss the 500 yard plate with a 123 gr Scenar even tho I don't practice it, because I check my 200 yard zero regularly and know I can trust my dope and loads for bullet drop. I just have to get the wind call correct and make the trigger pull right.

Shooting at longer ranges than 500 yds would need a different strategy for many reasons IMO.

[Kikn]

200 yard zero from now on. I used 100 for a long time but I won't go back to that. With a 200 yard zero you should hlbe able to hunt without adjustments to about 260-275 and still be in vitals.

[kamrr4437]

Mine is zeroed at 100 yards. I can use my moa reticle inside my Vortex Viper scope to adjust without ever touching a knob out to most yardages, basically all the way out to 800 yards. And the difference from 100 to 200 yards is only 2 moa. I adjust it on up for when i shoot 1000, but most of the time we have whats called the assault deck here which has metal silhouettes from 100 all the way to 450 yards and i just use my reticle to shoot them all and never miss a beat with the way that bullet flies lol. But really its just a personal preference really for you. However you really want to set it up for your application. Are you going to be shooting 1000 all the time as Bwaites suggested you might just sight it in 1000 and let her ride. But ultimately its your rifle just slay some steel for the Horde!

[SG4247]

One other thought that might be valuable to you. This works for me.

Using most ballistics calculators and a 100 yard zero is risky IMO.

If there is the slightest error in the 100 yard POI, that error will be compounded on the trajectory curve if projected out to long distance. Imagine a rigid curve where you can adjust the zero yard vertical position while the curve rotates about a fixed 100 yard point. A small vertical displacement at 0 yards is a huge vertical displacement at 1000 yards.

So, for my competition set up, I first zero at 200. Then I shoot 100 yards and 300 yards on paper. Then observe the POI at those ranges. Compare those drop results to your calculator output data for your load.

You will then need to "curve fit" the observed trajectory from your paper targets, to your calculator results. Three impact points on a curve from 0 to 300 yards is enough data points to define the real trajectory behavior reliably using most calculators - projected out to say 500-600 yards in my experience.

Also, unlike the .308, I sometimes find 6.5 handloads that look great at 100 and 200 yards, but seriously fall apart at 300 and further. Cant say why....

[noone]

Everything except the long disance rifle is zeroed at 100 yards. I don't bring out the long distance rifle unless I intend to shoot more than 300 yards, (usually much more), so it is zeroed at 300 yards.

Whether I have to dial up 10 minutes, 15 minutes, or 40 minutes of elevation, I still have to dial elevation. So the extra time between 10 and 40 minutes of elevation isn't a huge inconvenience. I can't remember a time when turning the elevation knob that extra 30 minutes of elevation cost me a shot or a match.

[bwaites]

Everything except the long disance rifle is zeroed at 100 yards. I don't bring out the long distance rifle unless I intend to shoot more than 300 yards, (usually much more), so it is zeroed at 300 yards.

Whether I have to dial up 10 minutes, 15 minutes, or 40 minutes of elevation, I still have to dial elevation. So the extra time between 10 and 40 minutes of elevation isn't a huge inconvenience. I can't remember a time when turning the elevation knob that extra 30 minutes of elevation cost me a shot or a match.

But it might cost me a coyote!

[NugginFutz]

But it might cost me a coyote!

Which is why all my song dogger's are zeroed at 200. I shoot dead hold out to 300 with good results. At ranges beyond 300, I usually have ample time and concealment to dial in the distance without alarming those wily critters.

[Klem]

Depends if I am shooting steel/paper or flesh.

Shooting steel/paper, I have my long guns zeroed at 100M. My F Class scope is zeroed at 300yds, but only because that's the shortest range in the discipline.

Shooting flesh, I use the most efficient Point Blank Range (PBR). PBR gives you the furtherest range with which you can point and shoot and effectively kill the target without touching the dials or aiming off.

Finding your PBR.
You mentioned familiarity with JBM. To find the zero range for a PBR figure out the largest diameter that will most likely kill the target. For example, 6" for a chest shot. Any wider and you're likely to wound or miss. For a 5.56mm with 70gn TAC-X Barnes at 2600fps from an AR. Enter 3" in the 'Vital Zone Radius' and it gives 202M as your PB zero range, and 234M as your maximum PBR. Zero for 202M and all targets between you and 234M will have the bullet impact (or at least the Mean Point of Impact) within a 3" radius.

To zero for 202M you can either walk all the way out there with a target or re-enter 202 as your 'Zero Range' into JBM and find out where it will print at something closer, say 100M - which in this case is 1.1Mil. At 100M your group needs to be punching 1.1cm above the point of aim to be zeroed at 202M, which will kill your chosen target out to 234 by aiming straight at it.