brass shoulder cracks

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  • brass shoulder cracks

    DSC00886.jpg
    I have noticed some tiny cracks on the shoulder of some reloads. Its hornaday brass, been loaded 3 times, Ive not noticed any cracks on the neck or any bulging primers. Ive been usin 31g 2520 with 120g nosler bt. velosity between 2520 -2560

    the other recipe i tried is cfe. I went from 30.4 -31.2 in .2 increments with same 120g nosler bt.

    I use fed 205 primers (I have a crap load of them)
    my barrel is 18" AA

    Is this normal "wear" on hornaday brass after several reloads?
  • txgunner00
    Chieftain
    • Mar 2011
    • 2070

    #2
    Those are most likely nicks from your locking lugs. Some folks have lightly polished the sharp edges off of their feed ramps and lower locking lugs to fix it.
    NRA life, GOA life, SAF, and TSRA

    "I ask, Sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people, except for a few public officials. To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."

    George Mason, co-author, 2nd Amendment.

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    • #3
      Those are most likely nicks from your locking lugs. Some folks have lightly polished the sharp edges off of their feed ramps and lower locking lugs to fix it.
      +1

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      • #4
        Originally posted by txgunner00 View Post
        Those are most likely nicks from your locking lugs. Some folks have lightly polished the sharp edges off of their feed ramps and lower locking lugs to fix it.
        I believe your right.. I just fired some factory 123's an got the same marks.. Is this something that in time after some more use will go away on its own?

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        • txgunner00
          Chieftain
          • Mar 2011
          • 2070

          #5
          It will probably reduce somewhat but won't go away completely unless you polish the edges out. This is just one of the idiosyncrasies of this caliber. Another is fang like scratches on the necks caused by the case dragging on the inside corners of the locking lugs. Again light polishing is a common way to correct it or shortening the ejector spring so the case isn't rotated out as quickly in the cycle of operation.
          NRA life, GOA life, SAF, and TSRA

          "I ask, Sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people, except for a few public officials. To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."

          George Mason, co-author, 2nd Amendment.

          Comment

          • rasp65
            Warrior
            • Mar 2011
            • 660

            #6
            Cap Here is a good description of what you need to do: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...Number=1946577 There are many ways to achieve this Dremel with cratex bits, emery paper, stones, or files . Go slow you don't want to take off more than you need to. In the end you will still probably get some battering of the case because it goes through a rather violent motion on its way into the chamber, but it will be better.

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            • #7
              Here's one I did:

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              • #8
                Guess I just gotta get brave enough to remove the barrel..lol

                fellers Iam new to these ar's....

                Comment

                • rasp65
                  Warrior
                  • Mar 2011
                  • 660

                  #9
                  I knew LRRPF would chime in and I didn't want to steal his thunder. If you are careful you can do it without removing the barrel from the upper.

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