Correct bushing for reloading Hornady brass?

[bfk4lyfe]

I've seen anywhere from 287-289 referenced here. What's the consensus for loading Hornady brass through a Redding type s for an ar?

I understand the diameter minus .003 (or whatever desired neck tension is) idea, but I can't get consistent readings on the factory load with my calipers.

[Sticks]

Redding Type S - you will probably settle on a .288 bushing. I'd get all three, I know it sucks at $15 per, but things change.

I would take a couple once fired or new brass, measure the neck wall thickness average and run the math. Example - (.0135 x 2) + .264))-.003 = .288

I can not remember for certainty which bushing I settled on, but I did repeatedly test a dummy round (once fired case with old primer) load in a mag, bolt release, eject and measure and did not get any bullet movement. It stayed the same COAL - no crimping needed. I also did some firm taps on a table on the base to see if I would get setback and the same result - no movement.

[Bobke]

I have all three as well, but settled on .288. Annealing will bring a greater level of consistency to the amount of spring back your brass exhibits, and is a key to making the bushing selection. And your brass will last longer, as well. More consistent ES/SD’s also. All are incremental improvements.

[LR1955]

Redding Type S - you will probably settle on a .288 bushing. I'd get all three, I know it sucks at $15 per, but things change.

I would take a couple once fired or new brass, measure the neck wall thickness average and run the math. Example - (.0135 x 2) + .264))-.003 = .288

I can not remember for certainty which bushing I settled on, but I did repeatedly test a dummy round (once fired case with old primer) load in a mag, bolt release, eject and measure and did not get any bullet movement. It stayed the same COAL - no crimping needed. I also did some firm taps on a table on the base to see if I would get setback and the same result - no movement.

What Sticks said. Get all three. Measure and use the one closest to your findings. With different brass companies drawing Grendel brass, there will be differences in neck wall thicknesses so having all three is a good idea. Was that way with the early Wolf brass compared to Lapua.

Chances are if you feel resistance when seating the bullet, you have sufficient neck tension. One way we used to 'test' neck tension was by inverting a loaded round and pressing the bullet tip down on some scrap wood. We were pressing down enough to see if the bullet would move back into the neck. We didn't throw our weight down on it, merely pushed with some pressure. Very rarely would we be able to push the bullet farther into the neck given normal neck tensions. .288 bushing is the one I ended up using for Lapua and Hornady. I had to use a .287 for the early Wolf brass. It was distinctly thinner.

LR55